Visit to Istvan Szepsy and Kiralyudvar Wineries (Tokaji, Hungary)

With the help of our friend, tsunami, my wife and I set up an appointment to visit the Kiralyudvar Winery in the Tokaji region in Eastern Hungary. The estate is not open to the public and appointments are needed. Tsunami placed both Kiralyudvar and Istvan Szepsy among his top 5 Tokaji estates.

The winemaker at both estates is the legendary Istvan Szepsy; and, therefore, we were able to taste wines from both of these estates during our visit to Kiralyudvar. Kiralyudvar is a joint venture between Istvan Szepsy and an American businessman, Anthony Hwang. Mr. Hwang also owns a controlling interest in Domaine Huet in the Loire Valley. Kiralyudvar is located in the town of Tarcal in a beautifully renovated Imperial monastery that dates back to 1100 AD.

The Istvan Szepsy winery on the other hand is 100% owned and run by Istvan. His family has been in the region forever. And I literally mean forever. His families history with the region and its wines go back over 1000 years. The family vineyards were confiscated by the communists after WWII. Istvan made wines for the local cooperative until the fall of communism. He then purchased back most of his family properties. When he talks about his wines you can tell this is a labor of love. As Istvan put it, the Szepsy winery is about "older vineyards, better terriors, more love, less business". For me, this makes his wines even more exciting. Istvan spent almost 3 hours with us pouring his wines and discussing life and wine.

Here are my notes

• 2003 Királyudvar Furmint Tokaji Sec 86 Points

  Hungary, Tokaji

  I liked the dry Furmint from Uri Borok better. This had a unique nose of oaky fruit and marshmallow. The wine was dry with a floral and mineral component. Medium bodied. 86 points.

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• 2002 Zemplén Hegyhat Tokaji Szamorodni 89 Points

  Hungary, Tokaji

  This estate is owned by Istvan Szepsy and his children. It is named after the ridge that forms the Tokaji region. This single vineyard dessert wine is made from freshly piscked grapes (compared to Aszu grapes which are dried for 2 months). The botrytized grapes are pressed in bunches and destemmed. This wine had 104g/sugar and is the equivalent of a 3-4 Put wine. 12.6% alcohol. It is made for early consumption but Istvan thought it could last for 20 years. It was softer than an Aszu wine with notes of peaches, honey and minerals. Leaner on the finish. 89 points.

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• 2003 István Szepsy Tokaji Szamorodni Édes 90 Points

  Hungary, Tokaji

  This is the 1st vintage Istvan made a Szamorodni from his own estate. It is the equivalent of a 5 Put wine. He used 100% new wood to age the must. Riper, richer and sweeter than the Szamorodni from Zemplen Hegyhat. Concentrated core of fruit with notes of peah nectar, apricot and orange blossoms. Unfortunately, this was not available for purchase. 90-91 points

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• 1999 Királyudvar Tokaji Cuvée 92 Points

  Hungary, Tokaji

  These Cuvee's are a recent style of sweet wine which is being made in the Tokaji region. It is made from Aszu berries just like a Put wines; but, winemakers have shortened the aging so the wine cannot be labelled Aszu. This wine is the equivalent of a 5 Put wine. It had a golden yellow color and was fuller than the Szamorodni that was poured. It was deceptively less sweet on the palate and showed better balance based upon higher acidity and tannins. Made for earlier drinking and particularly for sale to restaurants. Notes of orange marmalade and tropical fruits. This wine had not been labelled yet but I was able to talk Istvan into selling me some. 92 points.

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• 2002 István Szepsy Tokaji Cuvée 92 Points

  Hungary, Tokaji

  This was an impressive Cuvee. 11.3% alcohol. It had 176g/sugar and is the equivalent of a 6 Put wine. Light yellow color. It was less full than the 1999 Kiralyudvar Cuvee but it was 3 years younger. Notes of peaches, nectarine, stone fruit and cantalope. Very fruity and youthful now. Give this a few years. 91-93 points.

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• 1999 Királyudvar Tokaji Aszú 6 Puttonyos 94 Points

  Hungary, Tokaji

  From a fine vintage. 200g/sugar but with excellent balance. This is a blend from different vineyards. The nose was filled with forest floor aromas. Very ripe fruit and medium bodied. Vibrant acidity. Notes of cider and freshly picked pear. Outstanding wine. 94 points.

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• 2000 Királyudvar Tokaji Aszú 6 Puttonyos 91 Points

  Hungary, Tokaji

  This was bottled earlier than previous Kiralyudvar 6 puts and as a result showed riper fruit. It lacked a balance at this young age but that is to be expected and it will come around. Slightly sweeter than the 1999 at present. Notes of licorice and red fruit. 91+ points.

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• 2000 István Szepsy Tokaji Aszú 6 Puttonyos 96 Points

  Hungary, Tokaji

  My wife and I tasted this at the winery with Istvan in 2005. This wine is always a blend of Istvan's family vineyards. Based upon my tastings and talking to a few winemakers, 2000 is a classic vintage in Tokaji. This was an extremely clean and, as mentioned by Otis, seemless wine. Well balanced with notes of pure honey, cantalope and orange blossoms. Smooth creamy finish. Awe inspiring. Purchased 3 bottles to bring back into the country with us. 95-97 points.

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• 2002 István Szepsy Tokaji Aszú 6 Puttonyos 93 Points

  Hungary, Tokaji

  This was almost a barrel sample and not available for purchase. It had only been botled for 2 months. Very immature. A muted nose. Notes of citrus and apricot. A minimum of 2 years before it is really even ready to try and decades before it will show at its best. The overwhelming characterstic now is its bold acidity. 93-94 points based on potential.

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Although Kiralyudver wines are available in the US, Istvan Szepsy wines are very scarce and hard to come by. Only a nominal amount of 1996 and 1999 wines were shipped into the US. As a result I stocked up on all I could carry. After paying for my wines in Hungarian currency, Istvan looked for change for me (about $21) but did not have it. He told my wife to pick something out and she responding by asking him to pick out whatever he wanted. He came back with a 2000 Szepsy 6 Put in a custom wood box which he autographed for us.

By far, my favorite winery visit for this trip and a must visit for anyone going to Hungary.

VM