My Birthday

Some friends agreed to join us for dinner for my 45th birthday. I worked out a menu with the restaurant to pair with some wines I wanted to open. Probably a few too many bottles, but no one seemed to complain. Palate's staff really stepped up--a tremendous dinner.

The champagne was great, but the Huet was my WOTF.

• NV Franck Bonville Champagne Grand Cru Cuvée Les Belles Voyes 91 Points

  France, Champagne, Champagne Grand Cru

  Nice yeasty/citrus nose, gorgeous whirlpool of bubbles drifting to the pale straw surface. In the mouth, there's a the precision of fine chablis. As the somm pointed out, this was fine wine that happened to be sparkling. Very, very nice, albeit a bit pricey.

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• 2007 Domaine Huet Vouvray Sec Le Haut-Lieu 93 Points

  France, Loire Valley, Touraine, Vouvray

  Loved this one. Citrus/floral nose with a gentle acidity on the palate that made this one ideal with the smokey salumi and the smoked trout. I'll have to try this with barbeque ribs some time. Tons of upside.

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The Scholium was the hands down favorite, but the Vio. went really well with the salad.

• 2006 McPrice Myers Viognier Larner Vineyard 93 Points

  USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Ynez Valley

  Gorgeous honeysuckle and waxy peach nose, with unctuous viscosity in the mouth. Loved the bite of acid on the finish. Someone said they thought this had been acidified. No idea if that's true, but this is like springtime in a glass.

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• 2008 Scholium Project Naucratis Lost Slough Vineyards 95 Points

  USA, California, Central Valley, Clarksburg

  Like bottled joy, a blast of citrus fruit salad erupts both on the nose and palate. Extra points for just being delicious at a price that lets you indulge whenever you like.

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The Southing was probably my WOTN, if only because it far exceeded my expectations for both balance and complexity--maybe the best California PN I've ever had. The Volnay was a good pairing for the food, but totally outclassed. The Chianti had been a gift from a friend, and as it's my birthyear, thought it would be fun to check it out.

• 2001 Maison Leroy Volnay 92 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Volnay

  Popped and poured. Initially, the nose is dominated by barnyard and peat moss, with some baking spice. A bit shut down after ten minutes, the fruit started to come out after about 30 minutes in the glass, but I couldn't follow the wine as long as I wanted to, as it was all gone.

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• 2003 Sea Smoke Pinot Noir Southing 96 Points

  USA, California, Central Coast, Sta. Rita Hills

  The best Southing I've ever had. Proof to me that I need to have more patience with later vintages. Gorgeous cherry and spice nose, but with a poise that this wine never showed in its younger days. Velvety mouthfeel, lingering finish, fully mature, I think, but I wish I had more. Drink or hold.

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• 1964 Ruffino Chianti Classico Riserva Ducale

  Italy, Tuscany, Chianti, Chianti Classico DOCG

  Lots of caramel and honeyed notes, sure signs of oxidation, but underneath that was a good amount of briar, smoke and cedar. Great wine? No, but still something to be appreciated.

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Oh, Saxum, I love you so. The Rocket Block was dynamite, just behind the Sea Smoke for my favorite.

• 2005 Saxum Cuvée Rocket Block James Berry Vineyard 95 Points

  USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles Willow Creek District

  Bright cherry, strawberry, asphalt, campfire nose and palate. So much good stuff going on, this wine really shines in mixed company, but some time I need to just hole up with it for an evening and really get to know it better.

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• 2005 Saxum Booker Vineyard 94 Points

  USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles

  From magnum. Opened 14 hours early, double decanted. Cut to dinner time, still very tight and tannic on pouring, but over the next hour this really opened up. Black fruits dominate, with that signature Saxum floral/herbal nose and beautiful balance. No sign of the alcohol, this wine is beautiful now, and should improve for several years.

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I had been waiting to open this Dehlinger since reading a rave review on eBob. It was truly a fine bottle of syrah, but got a bit lost in the shuffle so late in the evening. The S-F spaetlese was very nice, but needs lot of time.

• 1998 Dehlinger Syrah East Face 92 Points

  USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley

  Subtle mocha, bramble, plum and pepper on the nose. Mouthfeel is round and balanced. A fully mature California expression of syrah with no fireworks, just exceptional class. Tremendous with our cheese plate.

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• 2007 Schäfer-Fröhlich Bockenauer Felseneck Riesling Spätlese Goldkapsel 93 Points

  Germany, Nahe

  Beautiful nose of honeyed roses. There's a nice acidity to this wine with a hint of botrytis. Gorgeous gobs of gladiolas (okay I made that one up), but still very tight and young. I think I'll reload and hide a few away for 5-10 years...

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Not a great port, but we were all feeling pretty fat and sassy by now, so who cares?

• 1991 Martinez Gassiot & Co. Porto Vintage 87 Points

  Portugal, Douro, Porto

  Decent, if simple, VP. Reminded of an LBV--plum and sweet, sweet caramel, but not a lot of complexity.

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