Under the Tuscan Sun/Florence Rain
Tuscany
Tasted Saturday, October 1, 2005 - Friday, October 7, 2005 by 97mjr with 3,847 views
Introduction
Spent two weeks in Italy. Started in Florence. After two days of rain we went out to the countryside, through Chianti to our ultimate destination Montalcino for three perfect days in the midst of harvest. Then begrudgingly returned for one night to Florence--for more rain--before heading out to the Coast.
Flight 1 - 10/1 - HOSTERIA CAMINETTO, Florence (2 Notes)
Near Duomo. Picturesque setting; food was solid. Wine was reasonably priced. But offered the worst service that we experienced; the staff was mocking the English speaking patrons even though they were in the middle of huge tourist area, and most patrons were American; would NOT return
Flight 2 - 10/2 - IL BARROCCIO, Florence (2 Notes)
Hole in the wall; good food; outstanding service; would return
Flight 3 - 10/3 Apt, Florence (1 Note)
Flight 4 - 10/4 - FATTORIA MONTAGLIARI WINERY, Chianti (2 Notes)
Had lunch at the winery's restaurant. The start of 5 great meals. Perfect way to spend an afternoon; the waiter just kept bringing food and everyone in a very fickle crowd raved about it. Worth a stop.
Flight 5 - 10/4 - CONTI COSTANTI WINERY, Montalcino (4 Notes)
Very traditional though welcoming place. The winery was in the middle of harvest yet still made time for us, and encouraged us to stay and observe the harvest.
Never tasted the wine prior to this visit, but the winery has a long history. The family moved to the property in 1560s. In the 1860s the family grew the first of the local clone of Sangiovese to be vinified as a single-varietal wine. They maintain traditional practices and limited production.
Flight 6 - 10/4 - LA TAVERNA DEL GRAPPA BLU, Montalcino (2 Notes)
Didnt research the restaurants in Montalcino before arriving. So we solicited recommendations from the innkeeper and a local wine merchant. Both recommended Grappa Blu.
It was a small trattoria with an extensive, reasonably priced wine list; a friendly, English-speaking manager/owner; and outstanding food. Returned for lunch on the day of our departure. Maybe the best meals of the trip. An absolute must.
Flight 7 - 10/5- ENOTECA LA FOREZZA, Montalcino (5 Notes)
The wine bar in the town's fortress. I expected it to be a tourist trap. However, the tasting selection was excellent, and the staff was extremely knowledgable and friendly. I was introduced to some great offerings. Highly recommended.
Flight 8 - 10/5- ENOTECA OSTERIA OSSTICCIO, Montalcino (6 Notes)
A wine bar about 200' from our inn which recommended by our driver. Large selection. Offered glasses, flights, and bottles. The restaurant has two levels; each with a striking view of the vineyards below Montalcino. The English-speaking manager/owner was very enthusiast and helpful. The customers included mostly English speaking tourists, but there were also two prominent local vinterns in the crowd, especially surprising considering it was harvest. Spent 2.5 hours eating, drinking, and enjoying the view. My only complaint was that I did not really enjoy anything from the 2 flights that we sampled. This just further supports my practive of avoiding wine sold by the glass. Nevertheless, the food was great; I would highly recommend a visit.
Flight 9 - 10/5 - OSTERIA LE POTAZZI, Montalcino (1 Note)
A more upscale restaurant, mostly Italian speaking customers; though Sinatra and Michael Buble were playing in the background. Adjacent to a wine shop. Impressive list at better than retail prices. Gave a great recommendation. The food was great; would highly recommend.
Flight 10 - 10/6 - BANFI WINERY, Montalcino
Didnt make any plans in advance; given the harvest and the lack of transportation, it was difficult to visit wineries. Therefore we went to Banfi with the hope of enjoying some wine and lunch. From the outset, we viewed this like a trip to Coppola or Opus: you do it once--it will not be a unique experience--but never again. Unfortunately, it was worse than we feared--with tour buses and mediocre wine. Didnt bother with lunch. Given the option, dont waste your time.
Flight 11 - 10/6 - BIONDI SANTI WINERY, Montalcino (2 Notes)
Stopped at the insistance of our driver who was a friend of the guides. Beautiful grounds; brief, educational tour. Not overwhelmed by the offerings, but a nice visit nevertheless.
Flight 12 - 10/6 - IL LATINI, Florence (2 Notes)
Famous Florentine restaurant. Situated on a hiddened back street. When we arrived, we thought that it was a playhouse or concert hall letting out. There were at 50 people in the street waiting to be seated. Seemed to be a mix of locals and tourists. There was no waiting list, but the wait was relatively short less than 30mins. Family style, only menus if requested. We opted to eat whatever the waiter brought us. Fun but overhyped.
Flight 13 - 10/7 - TRATTORIO TROVINO, Florence (1 Note)
Family run; seemed to be mix of tourist and locals. Food was good, service was very good
2001 Le Colline Dei Filari Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 89 Points
Italy, Tuscany, Montepulciano, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano
(10/1/2005)
Full bodied, BBQ, red fruit, stiff tannins; needs time to soften
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1997 Camigliano Brunello di Montalcino Gualto 93 Points
Italy, Tuscany, Montalcino, Brunello di Montalcino
(10/1/2005)
red fruit prominent earthy nose , distintictive brunello. Rich weight, blackberry, cherry, earthy, long ultasmooth finish. Drinks well now but may hold for future.
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