Dee Vine 2004s Part I

The 2004s are starting to come out, and this was the first of the Dee Vine tastings to show them. Overall I was pleased (although prices are still quite high) and relieved to no longer be tasting huge 2003s that smell like tropical cathouses.

• 2004 Erben von Beulwitz Kaseler Nies'chen Riesling Kabinett

  Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer

  $13.50 at Dee Vine. 8.5%, AP 3 519 004 08 05. Slate and a hint of cider on the nose, Sweet-Tarts. Pretty. I got two bottles. Very Good.

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• 2004 Weingut Keller Westhofener Kirchspiel Riesling Kabinett

  Germany, Rheinhessen

  $23 at Dee Vine. Sulphury, melony, off-dry. Flabby, with more melon. Good.

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• 2004 Müller-Catoir Mußbacher Eselshaut Riesling Kabinett

  Germany, Pfalz

  $22 at Dee Vine. 9.5%, AP 15-05. Grassy, well-balanced, with strawberries. Off-dry with a long finish. Very Good.

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• 2004 Schloss Vollrads Riesling Kabinett

  Germany, Rheingau

  $22 at Dee Vine. Just off-dry. Very lemony, not much else. Good+.

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• 2004 Erben von Beulwitz Kaseler Nies'chen Riesling Spätlese Alte Reben #6

  Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer

  $16.50 at Dee Vine. Acidic, more cider and Sweet Tart, somewhat subtle. Good+.

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• 2004 Weingut Keller Dalsheimer Hubacker Riesling Spätlese

  Germany, Rheinhessen

  $31 at Dee Vine. Cotton-candy-ish. Not bad. Good+.

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• 2004 Müller-Catoir Haardter Bürgergarten Riesling Spätlese

  Germany, Pfalz

  $27 at Dee Vine. 8.5%. Spritzy. Slate, great texture, nice melon. Very Good.

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• 2004 Müller-Catoir Haardter Herrenletten Riesling Spätlese

  Germany, Pfalz

  $29 at Dee Vine, 9.0%. Similar to the Burgergarten, somewhat smaller. Very Good.

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• 2004 Erben von Beulwitz Kaseler Nies'chen Riesling Spätlese Alte Reben

  Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer

  $23 at Dee Vine. 8.5%, AP 3 519 004 06 05. Wow. So long, so balanced, orange zest and lots of goodies. The aroma is glass-filling. Very Good+.

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• 2004 Schloss Vollrads Riesling Spätlese

  Germany, Rheingau

  $28 at Dee Vine. 8.5%. Cat pee, very tart, but strangely comes across flat. Totally disjointed. Good.

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• 2004 Weingut Keller Dalsheimer Hubacker Riesling Auslese

  Germany, Rheinhessen

  $52/half at Dee Vine. Sulphury, more Sweet Tart. Relatively balanced, but lacking overt botrytis. Good+.

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• 2004 Müller-Catoir Haardter Bürgergarten Riesling Auslese

  Germany, Pfalz

  $35/half at Dee Vine. 9.0%, AP 51740792505. Don't let the light color fool you. There's an apricot party in my mouth, and everyone's invited. Just beautiful. Very Good+.

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• 2004 Erben von Beulwitz Kaseler Nies'chen Riesling Auslese **

  Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer

  $31.50 at Dee Vine. I don't know if this is closed or what, but there doesn't seem to be much there. Some quiet botryrtis. Good+.

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• 2004 Schloss Vollrads Riesling Auslese

  Germany, Rheingau

  $52/half at Dee Vine. Chive, honeyed, elegant, beautiful. Very Good.

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