Inglenook Cabs 1980-1993 Blindtasted

Introductory comments from tasting organizer Ross Bott:
Inglenook was founded in 1879 by Gustave Niebaum, a Finnish fur trader. It was one of the first wineries in California, and contributed heavily to proving to the world that California would produce wines competitive with the best anywhere. Much of the credit goes to the Daniel era from the 1930s to the 1960s, when owner John Daniel and winemaker George Deuer, produced a string of legendary Cabernet Sauvignons which were outstanding in their day and in recent tastings are still great wines in remarkable shape. Daniel focused on quality over everything, including any chance at a profit. His Inglenook was one of the first wineries to declassify and sell of wines which did not meet the top standards, a principle which was much harder to live by when even top wines were selling for $1 and $2.

The financial toll finally caught up with Daniel in 1964. His winery equipment needed upgrading and he hadn't made a profit in years. So in a move which shocked everyone who knew him, he sold out to United Vintners for $1.2M. This began an era which extended until about 1980 when Inglenook made relatively ordinary wines, and their shining public reputation gradually eroded. They used the brand name to start Inglenook Navalle, a volume label to compete with Gallo. While that label was successful, it had a negative halo effect on their best flagship Cabernets, creating a perception that Inglenook was a low end brand.

In 1980, United Vintners sold the winery to Heublein, another large wine and liquor conglomerate. Heublein worked hard to ressurect the winery, bringing in a new team headed by Dennis Fife, who in turn brought in winemaker John Richburg and marketing head Patti Henshell. They re-designed the old Inglenook label which had remained virtually unchanged since the 1930s, and the quality of the wines, especially the Cabernets, improved dramatically. The Reserve and Reunion Cabernets from 1984 through 1991 were a throwback to the Daniel-Deuer style, and rivaled them in quality. However, the damage to the brand that had been done in the previous decade was irreversible, and by 1982, the Fife team departed for other wine ventures. Dennis Fife went on to found the Fife label, which is still producing fine Cabernets, Syrahs, Petites, Zins and Rhone blends from Napa mountain grapes today.

Tonight we'll try seven Inglenook Cabernets from the Dennis Fife era. These Cabernets ressemble more Bordeaux that typical California Cabs, focused more on graceful elegance rather than power. They had the structure to age well, and when we last tried them ten years ago, they were still going strong, with a bright future ahead. Here's the lineup:

1980 Inglenook "Estate", Napa Valley (12.5%)
1984 Inglenook "Estate- Reunion", Napa Valley (13.0%)
1985 Inglenook "Estate- Reserve Cask", Napa Valley (13.0%)
1986 Inglenook "Estate- Reserve Cask", Napa Valley (13.2%)
1987 Inglenook "Estate- Reserve Cask", Napa Valley (13.0%)
1990 Inglenook "Estate- Reserve Cask", Napa Valley (12.5%)
1991 Inglenook "Estate- Reserve Cask", Napa Valley (13.0%)

• 1991 Inglenook Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve Cask 88 Points

  USA, California, Napa Valley

  Group's #1 (my #2) – 29 pts; 3 1st place votes, 5 2nd place votes, 1 third, 0 last places – dark red violet color with pale meniscus; mature, earthy, mushroom and mineral nose; tart, tangy, black fruit, mineral palate with medium acidity; medium finish

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• 1987 Inglenook Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve Cask 87 Points

  USA, California, Napa Valley

  Group's #2 (my #3) – 32 pts; 4, 2, 3, 0 - dark red violet color; big tart plum, berry, black fruit nose; tart black fruit, tangy palate; medium finish

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• 1985 Inglenook Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve Cask 89 Points

  USA, California, Napa Valley

  Group's #3 (my #1) – 35 pts; 2, 3, 3, 0 - dark red violet color with pale meniscus; mature, light savory, ribeye steak and beef jus nose; mature, tasty, tart plum and cassis palate; medium finish

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• 1984 Inglenook Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon Reunion Reserve Cask 81 Points

  USA, California, Napa Valley

  Group's #4 (my #6) – 52 pts; 1, 1, 1, 0 – slightly browning medium red violet color with pale meniscus; tangy, balsamic, brown sauce nose; dried out, tart red fruit, high acidity; short finish

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• 1990 Inglenook Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve Cask 86 Points

  USA, California, Napa Valley

  Group's #5 (my #4) – 53 pts; 2, 0, 1, 1 – medium red violet color with pale meniscus; mature, plum and VA nose; mature, ripe black fruit, plum, black tea and prune palate; medium finish

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• 1986 Inglenook Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve Cask 84 Points

  USA, California, Napa Valley

  Group's #6 (my #5) – 58 pts; 0, 1, 2, 2 - medium bricking red violet color with pale meniscus; nice earthy, berry, tart black fruit nose; narrow, tart plum and cassis palate; short-medium finish

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• 1980 Inglenook Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley Flawed

  USA, California, Napa Valley

  Group's #7 (my #7) – 77 pts; 0, 0, 0, 9 – medium dark red violet; earthy, mercaptan and pine nose; equally bad on palate, dead and faulty; short finish

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