Uncorked.dk does 1998 Chateauneuf-du-Pape (and a few other gems)

Restaurant Premisse, Copenhagen
Tasted Friday, May 22, 2009 by gorm with 1,042 views

Introduction

A couple of Fridays ago Uncorked.dk gathered for a much anticipating tasting of 1998 Chateauneuf-du-Pape. A few of the members had been leaning on the host - Peter Solberg - for some time to put this tasting together. Thankfully he did. And with style. Unfortunately he himself had a bit of a cold, but were generous enough not to cancel the event.

The setting, company, food etc. was - as always - excellent. Now on with the wines!

Flight 1 - 1998 Chateauneuf-du-Pape I (2 Notes)

  • 1998 Le Vieux Donjon Châteauneuf-du-Pape 92 Points

    France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape

    Dark core with light rim. Quite acidic nose with dark berries, cinnamon, juniper and hints of wet dog. Appears soft and mature in mouth with a nice aftertaste of licorice and tobacco.

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  • 1998 Domaine Charvin Châteauneuf-du-Pape 93 Points

    France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape

    Light transparent red. Very delicious and spicy nose with incense, hay and mint. Nice intensity in mouth with a good deal of acid as well as tannins left. Nice aftertaste with some pepper and stables. Very classy.

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Flight 2 - 1998 Chateauneuf-du-Pape II (2 Notes)

  • 1998 Domaine du Pégau Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée Laurence 94 Points

    France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape

    Dark core with a slightly lighter rim. A first a somewhat shy nose, but then reveals dark cherries and earthy characteristics. Nice sweetness and some christmas cake. Nice mouthfeel that with a bit of airtime develops good intensity and achives a good sense of balance.

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  • 1998 Château de Beaucastel Châteauneuf-du-Pape 94 Points

    France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape

    Same color as the Pegau Cuvee Laurence. Very sweet and quite exotic nose with a touch of acidic jam - quince or pear, figs and honey. Nice acidity and intensity. Perhaps the wine shows just a hint of unwelcome lemony acidity? Nice herbal aftertaste with hints of cinnamon. Once again a bit of airtime pulls the wine together and adds density.

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Flight 3 - 1998 Chateauneuf-du-Pape III (2 Notes)

Flight 4 - 1998 Chateauneuf-du-Pape IV (2 Notes)

Flight 5 - Champagne Intermezzo (1 Note)

  • 2000 Vilmart & Cie Champagne Premier Cru Coeur de Cuvée 94 Points

    France, Champagne, Champagne Premier Cru

    Light yellow. Nice persistent mousse. Delicious nose with roasted wheat, yellow apples, yellow cherry plums. Very fresh and elegant mouth feel with more yellow as well as white fruit and flowers. Very intense and with a long aftertaste.

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Flight 6 - Extra wine from the Sommerlier (1 Note)

Flight 7 - 1989 Legends! (2 Notes)

  • 1989 Château de Beaucastel Châteauneuf-du-Pape Hommage à Jacques Perrin 95 Points

    France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape

    Dark red. Very delicious and intriguing nose of rustique cherries, leather, lavender, garlic. Dense and delicious taste. Seems like old-school grenache in the best sense. "Dusty licquer". Very intense aftertaste. Perhaps even a bit closed? What a treat to taste this legend!

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  • 1989 Château Rayas Châteauneuf-du-Pape Reserve 96 Points

    France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape

    Slightly lighter red. Very special nose of sour red berries, cinnamon and loads of asian spices - ginger and coriander. Seems lifted/high-pitched with a long aftertaste of dried herbs and grass. Actually appears very young. Together with the 89 Beaucastel Hommage a very special heat that will not be forgotten, even if they were not technically the best performing wines of the night.

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Flight 8 - 1998 Chateauneuf-du-Pape V (2 Notes)

  • 1998 Domaine du Pégau Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée da Capo 97 Points

    France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape

    Dark red core with a slightly lighter brown rim. Sweet and delicious nose with licorice, pine needles, hung meat, soy and pepper. Very intense and delicious mouthfeel with mouthcoating english licorice and a long aftertaste. Concentrated and very hedonistic.

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  • 1998 Roger Sabon Châteauneuf-du-Pape Le Secret des Sabon 98 Points

    France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape

    Dark red with a light rim. Very massive, sweet and intense nose of shoepolish, lavender, bacon, cherries and prunes. Nice intense taste and balance. Roastet bacon and almonds. Great aftertaste. Another sweet spot wine for me! Another treat to taste knowing there is only 1200 bottles around.

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Flight 9 - 1998 Chateauneuf-du-Pape and a 2000 joker I (2 Notes)

  • 1998 Château de Beaucastel Châteauneuf-du-Pape Hommage à Jacques Perrin 98 Points

    France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape

    Dark core. Slightly brown rim. Sweet and intense nose with very mature cherries, hints of prunes, hot rocks, incense and Asian spices. Nice intensity and lift in mouth with more Asian spices. Incredibly fresh and youthful fruit. Delicious aftertaste with notes of tobacco. For a while it seemed outperformed by the 2000 Caillou Reserve, but it just continued to grow in the glass and eventually grew into WOTN for me, just outperforming 2000 Caillou Reserve and and 1998 Sabon Secret a narrow margin.

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  • 2000 Le Clos du Caillou Châteauneuf-du-Pape Réserve le Clos du Caillou 98 Points

    France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape

    Dark red, looks very youthful. Very fresh and pure nose with cherries, raisins, chocolate and brown sugar. Very intense, but with great lift and an almost aethereal mouthfeel. Hints of mint, pine needles, incense, licorice and salty water. WOTN for most of the group. Perhaps would be for me as well in a few years, but not today.

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Flight 10 - 1998 Chateauneuf-du-Pape and a 2000 joker II (2 Notes)

  • 1998 Domaine de la Janasse Châteauneuf-du-Pape Vieilles Vignes 94 Points

    France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape

    Red core with a light slightly brown rim. Obvious sediment. Very sweet and intense nose of smoke, incense, brown sugar, lavender and sweet strawberries. Nice intensity and decent balance in spite of a huge sweetness. Very earthy and one of the tastings most mature wines. No competition for the previous heats.

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  • 2000 Château de Beaucastel Châteauneuf-du-Pape Hommage à Jacques Perrin 94 Points

    France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape

    Wow, third Hommage of the night. Just this time it is not only youthful, but quite closed. Dark red. Hints of dairy products, dark berries and a huge spicyness. Intense and very acidic. Hints of oak - vanilla and caramel. Should be left alone for now.

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Flight 11 - 1998 Two very different sweet wines (2 Notes)

  • 2005 Wittmann Westhofener Morstein Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese 95 Points

    Germany, Rheinhessen

    Light yellow. Delicious and intense as well as sweet nose with canned fruit, coconut soap and marzipane. Fat and delicious mouthfeel with a nice sense of balance due to the underlying fresh grapefruit acidity. Of course way too young.

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  • 1990 Château Climens 94 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Barsac

    Orange brown. Funny nose of burned rubber, glue, christmas cake and dried apricot. In the mouth there is nice acidity, orange peel and cake crumbs. Seems fresher as it gets some airtime. Quite different from the TBA.

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