Aussie Syrah-Cabernet blends blindtasted

Introductory comments by tasting organizer Ross Bott:
Although Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah are very rarely blended in California and most other winegrowing areas, the combination is a common practice in two regions -- Provence in southern France (including Domaine Trevallon, one of the great red wines of France), and Australia. Down Under, it is affectionately known as "Cab-Shiraz", although the relative percentages of Cabernet Sauvignon and Shiraz may differ widely, and other grapes from the Rhone Family (e.g., Grenache) and the Bordeaux family (e.g., Merlot or Cabernet Franc) may be included.

At first the combination of Cabernet and Shiraz may seem non-intuitive. Both varietals are highly structured, reductive, often tannic varietals, and the combination would seem to lack the complementary balance of, say, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot or Syrah and Grenache, where one is blending a softer, fleshier varietal in with a structured, tannic one. However, the difference in fruit character between Cabernet and Shiraz balances very well. Cabernet Sauvignon, after an initial strong fruit phase during its first couple years, will often "shut down", becoming withdrawn with tannins and acid dominating for as often much as a decade, before beginning to open up again. Shiraz on the other hand seems to operate on a different cycle, typically showing great fruit for its first decade, and often not ever truly shutting down. Blended together, they seem to show much more consistent fruit as they age, with the Shiraz filling in the early "fruit hole" of the Cabernet. Cabernet for its part, tones down the exuberant, sometimes over-the-top Shiraz fruit, with the combination having a more measured feel.

With age, a different Cabernet-Shiraz fruit balance comes out, with the Cabernet's weedy-herbal character muted by the Syrah's black cherries and spiciness, yet still providing an added dimension of complexity over a pure Syrah.

Tonight, we will taste some top examples of pure Australian Cab-Shirazes from the 2001-2003, including three vintages of Parson's Flat, made until 2004 by Sarah and Sparky Marquis and one of the best examples Cab-Shirazes in Australia.

• 2003 Parsons Flat Shiraz - Cabernet 92 Points

  Australia, South Australia, Limestone Coast, Padthaway

  Group's #1 (my #2) – 18 pts; 0 1st place votes, 4 2nd place votes, 2 thirds, 0 last places – dark red violet color; big caramel, toast and graphite nose; tight, toasty, black fruit, charcoal, roasted meat palate with sage note and good structure; medium-plus finish

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• 2001 Parsons Flat Shiraz - Cabernet 83 Points

  Australia, South Australia, Limestone Coast, Padthaway

  Group's #2 (my #7) – 22 pts; 1, 2, 1, 1 - very dark red violet color; caramel, berry and chocolate nose; hot entry, tight, ripe black fruit and berry palate; medium hot finish

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• 2002 Parsons Flat Shiraz - Cabernet 90 Points

  Australia, South Australia, Limestone Coast, Padthaway

  Group's #3 (my #3) – 25 pts; 2, 0, 1, 0 - dark red violet color; narrow, slightly peppery, graphite, dry black fruit, clove and sage nose; ripe black fruit, berry and pepper palate with structure; long finish 90+ pts.

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• 2002 Marquis Philips Sarah's Blend 92 Points

  Australia, South Eastern

  Group's #4 (my #1) – 29 pts; 2, 0, 0, 1 – dark red violet color; savory, sweet and smoky roasted beef jus and charcoal nose; tasty, sweet smoke, black fruit palate with caramel edge; long finish 92+ pts.

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• 2002 Tait The Ball Buster 84 Points

  Australia, South Australia, Barossa, Barossa Valley

  Group's #5 (my #6) – 30 pts; 1, 0, 2, 1 - dark red violet color; narrow pepper, graphite and dry black fruit nose; tart black fruit, graphite and mineral palate, too hot, though for real enjoyment; medium finish (60% Syrah, 20% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon)

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• 2001 Burge Family The Renoux 86 Points

  Australia, South Australia, Barossa, Barossa Valley

  Group's #6 (my #5) – 35 pts; 1, 1, 0, 3 - dark red violet color; plush berry, plum, black fruit nose; big, slightly hot, ripe berry, plum palate, monolithic and unstructured, with a menthol note; medium-plus finish (45% Syrah, 38% Merlot, 17% Cabernet Sauvignon)

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• 2003 Two Hands Shiraz - Cabernet Sauvignon The Lucky Country 87 Points

  Australia, South Australia, Barossa, Barossa Valley

  Group's #7 (my #4) – 37 pts; 0, 0, 0, 1 – dark red violet color; graphite, ripe berry and caramel nose, that changes to savory and smoky beef jus nose; tart barbecue sacue, tart plum and herbs nose; medium finish (55% Shiraz, 45% Cabernet Sauvignon)

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