1998 Australia Cab-Syrah Blindtasting

Introductory comments by Ross Bott, tasting organizer:
Blending Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah is not a new idea -- the French in the Provence region have been producing blends of these two top varietals since the nineteenth century. In many senses, it makes intuitive sense, using Syrah to "brighten" the sternness of Cabernet, while keeping two varietals which most feel are two of the three best and certainly the most long lived in the world. Some of the most famous Provencal wines, e.g., Domaine Trevallon, are Cab-Syrah blends.

However, these days, perhaps the best Cab-Syrahs are coming out of Australia. Here the Cabernets, while often very fine, have two characteristics which are non-traditional. One is a jamminess which makes them seem more like Syrah or Zinfandel, and the other is a latent very tannic underpinning which can make the wines forbidding before a decade of age. Ironically, Syrah seems to solve both these characteristics in opposite ways. The Shiraz combined with the Cabernet makes the Cabernet jamminess seem more natural because the big Shiraz show off a jammy character in a very compelling fashion and the Cab now seems to "fit in". At the same time, the intense fruit of the Shiraz cloaks the big tannins of the Cabernet, while the tannins of the Cab seem to give the Shiraz more structure. In any case, it works very well.

In this tasting, we'll try five Cabernet-Shiraz blends from Australia. We'll also have a highly rated French Provencal ringer from Mas de Bressades for comparison.

• 1998 Scarpantoni Estate Reserve 92 Points

  Australia, South Australia, Fleurieu, McLaren Vale

  Group's #1 (my #1) – 17 pts; 1 1st place vote, 3 2nd place vote, 1 third, 1 last place – black red color with red meniscus; intriguing smoky and somewhat savory nose; tasty, reminiscent of a Right Bank Bordeaux, with hints of menthol and eucalyptus; medium-plus finish 92+ pts.

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• 1998 Lake Breeze Wines Bernoota 91 Points

  Australia, South Australia, Fleurieu, Langhorne Creek

  Group's #2 (my #3) – 18 pts; 1, 0, 4, 0 - deep garnet red color; lovely sweet boysenberry, roses and vanilla nose; tasty, ripe boysenberry palate, Shiraz dominated, with a touch of green bean; long sweet finish (60% Shiraz, 40% Cabernet Sauvignon)

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• 1998 Scarpantoni School Block 91 Points

  Australia, South Australia, Fleurieu, McLaren Vale

  Group's #3 (my #2) – 18 pts; 2, 1, 1, 1 - dark red violet color; lovely deep berry, blackberry nose; velvety, mellow, mulberry palate with balsamic tinges, rich but balanced; long tangy finish 91+ pts. (Cabernet Sauvignon 55%, Shiraz 35%, Merlot 10%)

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• 1998 Rosemount Estate Mountain Blue 90 Points

  Australia, New South Wales, Central Ranges, Mudgee

  Group's #4 (my #4) – 19 pts; 0, 1, 0, 0 - deep red color; tight but intriguing sweet blackberry and vanilla nose; nice, but slightly grainy, maturing Cabernet palate with a core of sweet cherry and plum with good acidity; long finish

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• 1998 Elderton CSM 83 Points

  Australia, South Australia, Barossa, Barossa Valley

  Group's #5 (my #6) – 25 pts; 1, 1, 0, 2 - deep black red color; mild barbecue sauce and vanilla nose with possible touch of TCA; almost industrial-style blended wine on palate with high alcohol; medium finish (60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Shiraz, 10% Merlot)

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• 1998 Mas des Bressades Cabernet/Syrah 89 Points

  France, Languedoc Roussillon, Languedoc, Gard

  Group's #6 (my #5) – 26 pts; 1, 0, 1, 2 - Black red color with violet meniscus; nice violet, mocha and cocoa nose; black fruit, fig palate, reminiscent of a Merlot-dominated Bordeaux in a ripe year, with an unusual lavender Necco wafer note; medium-plus finish

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