NobleRottersSydney - Pinot Comparison AU/NZ/Fr

Absolutely pathetic, gentlemen. Apart from Glenn (virtually a fixture) and your less-than-humble scribe, not one Sydney-based member showed up for the October Noble Rotters dinner. What an appalling effort! Those few of us attending were so affronted by the spacious table (thanks Alio) and meagre volume of wine that we passed a resolution requiring any Rotters unable to make future dinners to send their bottle along anyway. Just because the rest of you have no commitment, we don’t see why we should suffer… (Apologies to anyone who was absent due to death in the family, etc.) Needless to say, the night’s theme; an extensive regional three-way comparison between French, NZ & Oz pinot noir, was thoroughly sabotaged by this flagrant act of collective bastardry.
Omitted: a Vintage Cellars cleanskin (dear God), and a corked 1996 Pibbin pinot...

• 2001 Cloudy Bay Pelorus (Brut)

  New Zealand, South Island, Marlborough

  {12.5%, cork} The flagship bubbly of the Cloudy Bay group, this lemon-coloured wine has youthful aromas of strawberries & cream, a dry, soft-acid palate with a distinct pinot tinge, small/medium creamy-textured bubbles carrying minimal biscuit notes but with a just a touch of apple/malic acid. There’s been a little aging development, and the wine could stand another few years without losing its inherent freshness, but I wouldn’t expect to see much evolution in its essentially simple and straightforward nature.

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• 2003 Scarborough Wine Co Pinot Noir

  Australia, New South Wales, Hunter Valley

  {13%, screwcap} I’m assured this is Hunter fruit, although I note the label makes no legal enforceable claims for the origin of the grapes. A classic garnet colour, the nose offers developing secondary meaty aromas. The palate continues a soft earthy theme, which gradually releases a sweet gentle jamminess. Medium weight powdery tannins are also in evidence, despite the otherwise light body of the wine. Perhaps more Hunter than pinot. The weight drops off a little towards the back palate, but it remains a characterful effort that will last a few years yet.

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• 1996 Mount Mary Pinot Noir

  Australia, Victoria, Port Phillip, Yarra Valley

  {13.5%, cork} Pale garnet, the wine appears less anemic than I feared. The nose is sweetly leathery, dusty, with a hint of old Burgundy. All the boxes are ticked lightweight; low-medium powdery tannins, light-medium body, soft acid. Truth to tell, a solid meal overpowers the wine; it needs elegantly-flavoured dishes. It’s strength lies in its structure and balance, which are perfectly judged and wonderfully integrated. Despite the light finish, it remains persistent. Appears to be hanging on quite well; as it sits in the glass it seems to get a little better, with some light brambly fruit emerging, so I wouldn’t fear keeping it for a few more years yet.

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• 1996 La Pousse d'Or Volnay 1er Cru Clos de la Bousse d'Or

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Volnay 1er Cru

  {13%, cork} Brought along as a back-up in case the [1996] Mount Mary was DOA., and then opened when the paucity of wine and scourge of TCA became apparent. Mid garnet in colour. Somewhat stinky nose, initially fungal and faintly feral. A dry palate follows; medium acidity, low-medium tannins, although gentle astringency builds over time. Stalky, but not unripe, red fruits emerge with time; they stop just short of true richness. Initially subdued on entry, the wine picks up weight on the mid-palate. Almost medium-bodied, with respectable length, this workmanlike premier cru for a decent year is ready to drink but will hold a while yet. Cost about the same as the Mount Mary; yet offers a different perspective on pinot; perhaps a surprise to find the Yarra wine more feminine than a Volnay!

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I still can’t believe it. Just five diners. [shaking head] More effort required, gentlemen…