NobleRottersSydney - Gordon's First Growth Night
Guillaume at Bennelong
Tasted Monday, September 4, 2006 by graemeg with 860 views
Introduction
Great wines (or at least expensive ones) tend to build up in the cellar waiting for ‘special occasions’ in order to be drunk. Eventually they become so numerous as to present an urgent problem. Perhaps the best solution is that expressed by Stephanie to Miles in Sideways concerning the fate of his ‘cellar treasure’; “When you open a ‘61 Cheval Blanc, that is the occasion.” And so it came to pass that after threatening for years to line up a night of First Growths, Gordon decided that September 11, 2006 was the occasion. Racks were raided, unopened cases were breached, and in an act of extraordinary generosity, the following wines were celebrated. In keeping with this spirit, no wines were corked, and none were dropped (all double decanted just before dinner).
Flight 1 (6 Notes)
Flight 2 (3 Notes)
And so to the triptych of First Growths from 1988. Facing these wines, having read about them so often, it is difficult to avoid seeing them in their stereotypical guises. Suppose the Margaux is ethereal and fragrant, the Mouton rich and flamboyant, the Latour stately and majestic; is this how the wines speak, or is it subliminal channeling of the writings of Broadbent / Parker / Robinson? The only certainty is this: it’s a privilege to be able to find out!
1955 Moulin Touchais Anjou Blanc
France, Loire Valley, Anjou-Saumur, Anjou
Honey & nougat nose, overlaid with a nutty maderization. Wood spice & cinnamon notes. Palate follows the nose to a degree, weighty, with almost an amontillado aspect to it. The aging has bequeathed some pungent notes and the wood-like flavours, all of which is interesting; but the single biggest effect of the oxidative effects has been to truncate the finish somewhat, which is a pity. Otherwise well preserved by the acidity, which is still ragingly high, this is a privilege to drink, although its time has definitely arrived, and there’s nothing to be gained by holding it longer.
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1993 Château Mouton Rothschild
France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac
A quite young and fresh nose of sweet oaky spice and currant-like fruit, with an earthy, faintly fungal-but-clean note. The palate is dry, moderately low in acid, with medium weight powdery tannins. Cedary flavours abound, there is some stalkiness leading to a very dry finish of moderate length only. Do I detect a dip in the mid-palate as well? A tricky vintage; although the wine is very pleasant, at its core the balance doesn’t quite seem right, and I fear the tannins will outlive the fruit. Probably best to drink sooner rather than later.
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1989 Château Cheval Blanc
France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Saint-Émilion Grand Cru
These wines were served as a pair [with the 88], and perhaps confirmed the relative merits of the two vintages. The 1989 offered a medium intensity aged nose of mushroom, graphite and a pleasant compost note. The palate was dry, with low-medium acidity and medium weight powdery tannins. There are leafy-but-ripe developed fruit flavours, with cedar & wood-spice which follow the path indicated by the nose. This wine is not exactly lavish; it’s somewhat boney and restrained, yet the balance is good across the palate, tailing off a little at the very back. With a medium length dusty dry finish, and medium weight body, it would appear to be at, or just past, its peak.
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1988 Château Cheval Blanc
France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Saint-Émilion Grand Cru
Dropping back a vintage, the 1988 is more obviously aged; the faintly exotic-spiced nose here only slightly compromised by a metallic note. It’s still seems promising, though. On the palate, it’s similar in profile to its younger [1989] sibling, except all the structural elements seem wound back a notch, with the result that it begins to look a bit thin. Drying tannins are the final remnant on the palate; drink up now is what this wine tells us. Consumed with the first course of the meal both wines lifted considerably, as you’d expect with top claret, so it’s not too much of a trial…
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1989 Château Mouton Rothschild
France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac
This wine’s bouquet still has some primary fruit notes to offer – there’s more than a dash of rich cassis aroma among the accompanying smoke and tobacco nose. Very rich indeed after the preceding Chevals [89 & 88]. The palate is big too; an arch of ripe flavour stretches in an even sweep from front to back. Here the development takes centre-stage, and the aromatic fruitiness subsides beneath the strong chalky tannins and muscular acidity. Wonderfully balanced, with a long even finish, this is a classy wine which drinks beautifully now, but will happily take more cellaring. Was the early runner for wine-of-the-night, and only lost a few supporters along the way.
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1988 Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande
France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac
Here’s a modest interloper second growth come along to play with the big boys. And, it must be said, making a pretty good fist of it. The nose is of developed cigar and leather, some violets, a dash of cassis; powerfully intense correct Paulliac. The palate is impressive too; acidity, dusty tannin and overall body all at mid-to-high levels. There are developed red fruit flavours, drying furry tannins, and an almost slippery-glycerol feel to the texture; upholstered and rich. A long, even and weighty finish caps off a super tasting experience; richer still with food, this wine should have plenty of time left before any lessening occurs. Bravo! (And, crudely perhaps, the bargain of the night!)
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