More 2007 Chablis, Including Fevre Les Clos

Vin Vino, Palo Alto
Tasted Saturday, August 1, 2009 by drwine2001 with 485 views

Introduction

The wines (save for one) uniformly looked like young Chablis-pale with a touch of green, so I have not bothered to note this each time.

Flight 1 (8 Notes)

  • 2007 Domaine Costal Chablis Les Truffières

    France, Burgundy, Chablis

    Pineapple notes. Round and rick with orange blossoms, a mint undertone, good acidity but not very minerally at this point. Built for the short term. Apparently, the winemaker is a young protege of Raveneau.

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  • 2007 Domaine Séguinot-Bordet Chablis 1er Cru Fourchaume

    France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis 1er Cru

    Floral and forward. Lighter weight wine, high toned citrus fruit. Well made and balanced, but lacks intensity and excitement in the context of the rest of these wines. I will say that the finish lengthens and sneaks up on you, though. Again, an approachable style not destined for aging.

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  • 2007 Domaine Séguinot-Bordet Chablis 1er Cru Vaillons

    France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis 1er Cru

    Lemon oil on the nose with some wood, but discretely done. This is a step up weight and intensity from the Fourchaume, but the fruit is duller due to the wood influence at the end. Typical fatter Vaillons style. Good.

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  • 2007 Domaine William Fèvre Chablis 1er Cru Vaillons

    France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis 1er Cru

    Most classic Chablis aromas of the wines so far, briny and rich at the same time. It becomes even more complex in the glass. Absence of wood is striking compared to the Vaillons before it. Beautiful balance of sugar/acid making the fruit much more lively than any of the preceding 3 wines. Terrific palate cleansing cut, long, persistent finish, and a lingering coat of minerals stays with you long after the wine is spit or swallowed. An outstanding Premier Cru with wonderful flavor and intensity for its weight, the best Fevre Vaillons I have tried, and the class of the 3 Vaillons in this tasting.

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  • 2007 Vincent Dauvissat (René & Vincent) Chablis 1er Cru Vaillons

    France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis 1er Cru

    Third time I've tasted this. Very pretty, floral nose that shows more Sauvignon-like grapefruit as it sees air. Clearly heavier than the Fevre, and more like the Seguinot Bordet in that it has toasty oak on the finish. I much preferred the Fevre today and was surprised at how low the acidity seemed in comparison; maybe this perception was caused by the wood. Like Dauvissats often do, it got better over time.

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  • 2007 Domaine Séguinot-Bordet Chablis Grand Cru Vaudésir

    France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru

    Lower pitched than the Dauvissat and also lighter weight. A kiss of wood is present but very restrained. Terrific balance, subtle sweetness combined with powdery, lemon fruit. This is one that won me over with its detail, elegance, and focus. OK, maybe it falls just a tad short of Grand Cru stature, but I bought it anyway; when I drink it, I'll close my eyes and just imagine I'm drinking an upper echelon Premier Cru!

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  • 2007 Domaine William Fèvre Chablis 1er Cru Fourchaume Vignoble de Vaulorent

    France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis 1er Cru

    The one wine that was a bit fuller yellow than the others. Some oyster shell here. Weightier than the Vaillons, deeper citrus fruit that is not as piquant and does not shimmer and dance as much. Becomes more exotic as it opens. Wood imprint on the finish gives it some bitterness. My least favorite of the 3 Fevres in this line up.

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  • 2007 Domaine William Fèvre Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos

    France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru

    Dizzyingly complex, penetrating nose-wow! This is by far the tightest, most backward of the wines today with a hint of citrus fruit, but what classic drive and a crescendo of minerality. No trace of wood here (maybe the acidity scared it away), but a welcome touch of youthful austerity, appropriate for an infant Grand Cru. Fabulous and much like the Dauvissat Clos from this year in possessing amazing palate presence and expansiveness with so little weight. This should be great with adequate time in the bottle.

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Closing

Today, with a few exceptions, the wines showed more bright citrus than minerality, which I trust will become more obvious as the wines age. My clear preference was for the 3 wines that had that magic Burgundian combination of great flavor and a sense of weightlessness. The Fevre Clos is as spectacular as it is said to be and is a "must have" classic of the vintage for fellow Chablis nuts. I had never tasted any of the Seguinot Bordet wines and thought they were very good to excellent and good value, especially the lovely, feminine Vaudesirs, which for me was one of the top 3 wines behind the Fevre Clos and Vaillons.

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