NobleRottersSydney - Southern Highlands - Centennial tasting & Lunch

Centennial Vineyard, Bowral
Tasted Sunday, May 7, 2006 by graemeg with 443 views

Introduction

An ultra-relaxed Sunday lunch began with a tasting at Centennial Vineyards, the Central Highlands’ answer to Voyager Estate. The vast Tuscan-style buildings host a tasting room and restaurant which dwarf the 120-ton capacity winery, but there is room to expand. The long driveway winds its way between the immaculately trimmed rows of wines glowing in the autumn sunshine; it really is very easy on the eye. For the first time ever, the Hunter has a rival as a serious wine-tourist-magnet; moreover it is only half the distance from Sydney, and with considerably better roads. Three ranges of wine are offered here, the quaffing ‘Bong Bong’ wines, then an extensive varietal ‘Woodside’ range, with the ‘Reserve’ wines completing the collection. We preceded the tasting with a tour of the winery; it must be one of the few in the country to actually have reverse cycle temperature control in part of the winery; when you pull cabernet off the vines in May and get a cold spell in Bowral there’s evidently the risk that the fermentations will grind to a halt altogether unless the winery can be heated!

Flight 1 (7 Notes)

  • 2004 Centennial Pinot Noir Chardonnay

    Australia, New South Wales, South Coast, Southern Highlands

    {11.5%, cork} Clean and simple bubbly, a whiff of strawberry on the palate, pleasantly dry on the finish. No great depth, it’s undemanding summer drinking.

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  • 2005 Centennial Sauvignon Blanc Woodside

    Australia, New South Wales, South Coast, Southern Highlands

    {A$20, screwcap} A pungent, greenish gooseberry nose. This is ‘old-style’ new-world sauvignon, and is no less polarising nowadays than it was ten years ago. Medium weight acid, it’s an early drinker that needs seafood!

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  • 2004 Centennial Chardonnay Unwooded Woodside

    Australia, New South Wales, South Coast, Southern Highlands

    {A$19, screwcap} A butterscotch-aroma-ed, tropical, low-acid, off-dry kind of early-drinker with a short finish.

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  • 2004 Centennial Chardonnay Reserve

    Australia, New South Wales, Central Ranges, Orange

    {A$27, 14%, screwcap} Oddly enough – a reflection of the newness of the estate no doubt – many of Centennial’s reserve wines are not in fact made from local fruit. This wine has a almond and peach nose, but the palate is refreshing, not over-worked, and mercifully free of malolactic characters, despite carrying a fair degree of oak flavour. Overall it’s quite light though, a middle-of-the-road style which is pleasant, if over-priced, drinking.

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  • 2004 Centennial Tempranillo Woodside

    Australia, New South Wales, South Coast, Southern Highlands

    {A$20, 12.8%, screwcap} A clean, fruity, bitter cherry nose. The palate is light, oak free, but with some grape tannin astringency. Front palate weight and a short finish establish this as a food-friendly quaffer.

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  • 2003 Centennial Shiraz

    Australia, New South Wales, Southern New South Wales, Gundagai

    {A$27, cork} [From Orange, not Southern Highlands] Precious few wines on this trip have been sealed with cork, so the resourceful TCA gremlins need to take every opportunity left to them. Bullseye! The second bottle opened showed some black berries on the low-intensity nose. It’s soft and smooth on the palate, resulting from the fairly low levels of acid and tannin apparent. Not especially distinctive; and it is ripe, at least, but rather pricey…

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  • 2003 Centennial Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve

    Australia, New South Wales, Central Ranges, Orange

    {A$26, cork} Yet a third reserve wine from across the dividing range. This is more interesting, with medium intensity blackcurrant, charcoal and liquorice aromas. Medium weight tannins and a herbal note to the palate fruit all add up to a decent sort of wine.

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Flight 2 (4 Notes)

The lunch was very good indeed; value was probably in keeping with a boutique-type affair in a tourist-oriented region. And the place was full as well, which bodes well. (I can’t imagine that the overall operation is making money at the moment.) Let’s hope they can get some decent local fruit for their flagship wines as soon as possible. We sampled the following wines over lunch:

  • 2004 Centennial Bong Bong

    Australia, New South Wales, South Coast, Southern Highlands

    {A$17, screwcap} Pale yet vivid pinky-red in colour, this has lots of strawberries and cream on the nose. It’s a soft wine on the palate, with a touch of residual sugar that seems unsupported by much in the way of acid. Predictably short finish.

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  • 2004 Centennial Pinot Noir Reserve

    Australia, New South Wales, Central Ranges, Orange

    {14.2%, screwcap} [Think this is Southern highlands fruit] Clean raspberry notes lead the palate, but there’s a whiff of game underneath. Very correct, if quite low in intensity. There’s touch of oaky smoke on the palate, with medium tannins and soft low-level acid. It’s quite focussed, ripe and even, but generally low key. Light body, good balance, not profound. Quite acceptable and probably not too expensive either.

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  • 2004 Centennial Tempranillo Reserve

    Australia, New South Wales, South Coast, Southern Highlands

    {14%, cork} Medium ruby/purple colour. A low intensity nose of tar and violets with floral notes. Tastes ripe, with medium/high tannins quite good balance, and some persistence. Little oak, if any. Of some interest.

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  • 2004 Centennial Rondinella Corvina Reserve Limited Release

    Australia, New South Wales, South Coast, Southern Highlands

    {15.2%, cork} Here’s two-thirds of an Amarone della Valpolicella a long way from home! And it’s even got a good write-up from His Holiness Robert Parker and a score in the 90s! I find a nose of raisins, bitumen and fruitcake, with a touch of volatile acidity. Perhaps not too far in style from a modern pumped-up Barossa Grenache. Obviously ripe – perhaps too ripe – with warmth on the palate giving way to hollowness and a bitter finish. Acid is low also, but the tannins are quite prominent. Unusual but flawed – a wine for tasting rather than drinking…! Parker’s review is quoted in the cellar door tasting sheet; he recommends drinking within 5-8 years, but I think that five years is the very limit for this wine. Despite the displays in the tasting room, this is apparently not yet for sale, so price is a mystery.

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Closing

Very enjoyable weekend – despite what appears to be a lot of lukewarm tasting notes above the wines were generally fault-free, sound examples of cool-climate winemaking from mostly young vines. With some more vine age, and a little more personality to the wines, I think this area has an excellent future and will give the Hunter a scare on the tourism front. Once the word gets around, that is. The other especially recommendable thing is how many of the wines are available for under $25 – less than $20 is probably a better psychological barrier, but low-$20s prices shouldn’t discourage anyone from buying who finds a wine they like – and that won’t be hard. Special thanks to Andrew for organising, and to Mark Bourne and the other local folks who looked after us so well.

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