Thanksgiving Round I

We had guests in town and I had to work today, so we headed to the club for Thanksgiving dinner. We'll do the full-bore, home-cooked version on Saturday with family and local friends.

This means we had to choose wines off a list that had a glaring lack of cru Beaujolais (which will be the Saturday reds) and a challenging lack of choice among Champagnes by the glass and even moderately mature still wines. Oh well, these occasions mean I get to try wines I might not otherwise buy or taste.

• NV Laurent-Perrier Champagne Cuvée Rosé Brut

  France, Champagne

  By the glass pour from a new bottle. Light salmon color with somewhat dissipated mousse. Bead was nice and tight but just seemed to lack vigor. Nose was pure and red fruit-driven, with red raspberry and just a little fresh plum. Background scents included a hint of dark flower and maybe a little earth. On the palate, in good balance with light berry tones and a pleasant touch of structural depth and woodsiness (not woodiness). Quite correct, but lacking any particular excitement. A basic NV made slightly more interesting by the hint of structure and berry from the bit of red grape extraction.

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• 1998 Paul Blanck Riesling Schlossberg Vieilles Vignes

  France, Alsace, Alsace Grand Cru

  Bright yellow just starting to take on the slightest hint of gold richness. Nose is initially a bit musty and chemical – have to do a double-take before telling the server that it is okay – but this blows off in only a minute or two to reveal a round lanolin-like waxiness in the nose that is almost textural, along with apricot and tropical fruit, some floral character, and an intriguing nuttiness. Underneath it all is just the tiniest hint of petrol. On the palate, this has a definite oily richness that is evident on entry, helps to spread flavor throughout the mid-palate and seems to make the finish cling and last. Cutting through this is a little minerality – just enough to ease the texture and let the lemon, tropical fruit and floral nectar flavors come out. Pleasant enough by itself, this really shines with the crab/crawfish timbale and the slightly spicy gumbo. Perfect for the food and the moment, but I worry whether this has the acid structure to develop long-term.

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• 1993 Domaine Jacques Prieur Corton-Bressandes

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton Grand Cru

  Decanted for about ½ hour. Rapidly maturing red in the glass. Nose absolutely screams Epoisses as soon as it is poured, settling down into macerated ripe cherry, some mushroom, and maybe a touch of anise. Palate seems fully mature, with very little evident tannin and a bit of an acid deficit. Fruit is primarily cherry pie filling with some slightly brighter berry highlights. No concentration issues, as the wine is full from entry to the medium length finish, but the fruit just seems a little flat. Does an admirable job of standing up to the typically difficult muddle of Thanksgiving flavors, but fails to generate any real zip or interest. Possesses neither the broad shoulders and depth of flavor I look for from Corton nor the precision and transparency that has made ’93 my favorite recent Burg vintage. I imagine this was a bit sexy in a very ripe way when young, but now it is just ho-hum. Not of grand cru quality.

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• 1985 Taylor (Fladgate) Porto Vintage

  Portugal, Douro, Porto

  By the glass pour from a nearly full bottle. Purplish hints to generally deep red robe with good density – not quite opaque. Nose is rich with deep, dark berry fruits and a little mocha spiciness. After few minutes in the glass, this gets a little spirity but maintains its sweet fruit character. Perhaps there’s a bit of toasted nutmeat, but not a lot of complexity beyond that. On the palate, rich and moderately sweet fruit and a continuing spirity character mask what tannin there is. There’s a regal, purple velvet softness to this through the mid-palate, until the alcohol comes out again on the finish. Not particularly complex at 20 years of age. That’s okay, but in that case it should be more youthful. Instead it has a softness that makes me question whether this will get much better. Pleasant enough to drink, but disappointing for the house.

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Nice dinner with friends. Wines were perfectly good enough for enjoying with dinner and entertaining a non-geek crowd, but the only one I'd be likely to order or buy again is the Schlossberg.