Thankful for wine on Thanksgiving

Leslie Sbrocco's home
Tasted Friday, November 25, 2005 by jamiekutch with 3,681 views

Introduction

It was a great Thanksgiving and I was happy Tony Velebil was able to join Kristen and me for it. We were fortunate that Leslie Sbrocco invited us to join her and her family for my favorite holiday. In addition, Leslie invited her good friend Linda Murphy to join in the festivities. Linda is the S.F. Chronicle's Wine Editor and another wine geek so to say that she kept me and Tony on our toes was an understatement. We immediately all hit it off and began geeking out about both our experiences with wine in the past as well as our future endeavors. Linda spoke about her days when she worked with Merry Edwards in early 1990 and what a great experience that was. She wasn't all that different than myself in that she picked up one day, changed her life, and pursued her passion for wine. Now she is reaping the benefits of working in an incredible field with incredible people and a mountain of wine to taste through. Her palate was extremely sharp and I need to start paying attention to the Chronicle wine column more often.

We sure weren't light on wine nor food for that matter. Kristen and Leslie were busy as could be preparing the dishes while Tony and I prepared the wine.

Leslie is currently in the midst of writing her second book and she hosts a new food and wine show on PBS called Check Please. She also writes bi weekly column for the S.F. Chronicle. Both Leslie and Linda were the original two women who started Wine Today (the NY Times online wine review). Both have also sat on wine panels with the likes of Pierre Rovani, Elin McCoy, Lettie Teague, etc.

With the table set, we were ready for action and of course ready for wine.

Flight 1 - Champagne (4 Notes)

We started with not one, but 4 bottles of bubbly. Leslie actually was ready to open more (she is a more more more type personality) but I talked her into moving toward whites as I knew the night would be a long one.

Flight 2 - White's (5 Notes)

The whites were fun until we came upon our first corked wine. The Trimbach.

  • 2004 Dr. Loosen Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Spätlese 93 Points

    Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer

    We cracked two of these as the first was pounded so quickly. An absolutely fantastic German Riesling and my first of the 2004 vintage. Better think about backing up the truck because this was a champion. With a delicious balanced nose of stone and rock the aromatics lift you up and caress you into seduction. Delicious mouth feel with great balanced acidity giving a slight pucker to the back of my mouth. Very light sulfur distracts just a touch while the fruit purity screams drink me. Yumm.

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  • 2002 Joh. Jos. Prüm Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese 93 Points

    Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer

    Infanticide!! Did someone at the table order sulfur? This screamed of sulfur, sulfur, and more sulfur. We quickly decanted this new born into a decanter as this was still a premature baby. I revisited this wine over four hours always hoping for an opening act but was left sitting in my seat with no show. One can just get a glimpse though of what backstage has to offer with ripe fruit and a volcanic nose waiting to explode. We will just have to wait 15 more years to open the next one. This is a sleeping beauty.

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  • 1998 Trimbach Pinot Gris Réserve Personnelle

    France, Alsace

    I was really looking forward to this wine and when Tony took a sniff and I watched his reaction I new immediatly we got screwed by the cork. DK

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  • 2003 J. Rochioli Chardonnay Russian River Valley 88 Points

    USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley

    Buttered popcorn and tropical fruit. Typical California Chardonnay fashion. Leaves little to the imagination and the oak is overly used here.

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  • 2004 Domaine Marc Kreydenweiss Gewurztraminer Kritt Les Charmes 92 Points

    France, Alsace

    Delicious peach nose with perfume and flowers. Very fine concentration and a medium body give way to its silky texture. A fine wine.

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Flight 3 - Pinot Noir (5 Notes)

I was disappointed in most of the Pinot. The one bottle I did though enjoy was the Beaux Frères (see below).

  • 1998 Cristom Pinot Noir Mt. Jefferson Cuvée

    USA, Oregon, Willamette Valley, Eola - Amity Hills

    The Pinot was hit with a shotgun, as there was a clear hole right in its middle. The palate was tannic and tannins bitter. The fruit never reached full maturity and it sat limp like Hue Hefner without his Viagra. I am not sure what 98 was like in Oregon in terms of weather but this was amiss.

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  • 1998 Beaux Frères Pinot Noir Beaux Frères Vineyard 93 Points

    USA, Oregon, Yamhill County

    This was a fantastic domestic Pinot Noir with nice subtlety’s and some wonderful earth notes. Sprigs and leaves with clean fruit including tart cherries, raspberries and a hint of herbs & smoked meat. The palate is both rich and velvety. This was a nice wine.

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  • 1998 Gary Farrell Pinot Noir Rochioli Vineyard

    USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley

    This was oxidized and I was bummed although 98 was such a tough year, I probably wasn't missing much non-the-less. DK

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  • 1998 Kazmer and Blaise Pinot Noir Primo's Hill 88 Points

    USA, California, Napa / Sonoma, Carneros

    Very fruit ridden, bordering on being over-ripe with lots of long lasting tannin flavors. Seemed to be on the younger side and still in need of time.

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  • 1998 Bouchard Père et Fils Corton-Le Corton

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton Grand Cru

    Such a baby once again this wine was really holding back when we opened it. Immediately into the decanter it went. You can sense the powerful grip that’s hiding below the layers of cherry fruit. A good bite of heavy tannins on the back and finish. This wasn't especially enjoyable as it was just simply too young.

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Flight 4 - Rhone, Châteauneuf-du-Pape (3 Notes)

The Rhone flight didn't disappoint with the three wines below. Had this flight only had in it the Beaucastel, I still would have been a very happy man. As you can see, I couldn't get my nose out of the glass.

  • 1998 Château La Nerthe Châteauneuf-du-Pape 88 Points

    France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape

    A simple CdP which didn't even entice me to take much of a note. Violets, and a slight spice brought the wine up. Dark cherry and a simple finish took it down.

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  • 1998 Château de Beaucastel Châteauneuf-du-Pape 95 Points

    France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape

    Beau Beau Beau yourself Beau yourself till drunk!! Tony and I horded this wine. It sat in front of us at the dinner table and we couldn't consume it fast enough with its animal funk, game and meat nose and palate. Simply divine and a wine I never grow tired of. Black cherry and blackberries join bacon fat and blood of beef. The tannins are well built and the seamless finish puts you into a meditating state. A non wine drinker requested that Leslie open another bottle so off to the garage we went only to find the next wine instead.

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  • 1998 M. Chapoutier Châteauneuf-du-Pape La Bernardine 92 Points

    France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape

    Beautifully concentrated wine with minerals, dark cherry, vanilla, spice and a very fine balance. Medium in body with a good finish takes you on a magic carpet ride.

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Flight 5 - Dessert (4 Notes)

We had a plethora of dessert wines. None of them were much of interest to me. Here is a rare photo of Tony and Leslie trying to swallow their glass. Draw your own conclusion!!

Flight 6 - ROCK STAR

With the night winding down and our energy levels dwindling, it was time to take it back up a notch. That's when Leslie came into the kitchen with ROCK STAR! Boy did it do the trick because within 10 minutes both Leslie and Kristen were LOOPED UP and dancing to the blaring sound of Ricky Martin "Living The Viva Loca"! I was on the couch passing out...

Tony was enjoying his glass of Rock Star from a Spiegelau glass.

Closing

Fluorescent urine yellow. Sweet nose of medicine like Robitussin. Immediate gratification as your heart starts to beat to the bump of the music.

For the conclusion of the night Leslie brought Kristen, Tony, and myself into her packed to the gills garage where there is harley and inch for any more wine to fit. She packed up a doggie box for us filled with wine. It was truly a wonderful evening and once more just another indication that this move was the best thing I could have ever done.

Jamie

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