Burgundy vs. California Chards and Pinot Blindtasting Dinner
The Plumed Horse Restaurant, Saratoga, California
Tasted Thursday, September 3, 2009 by rjonwine@gmail.com with 1,134 views
Introduction
Another David Niederauer production at one of our favorite venues, with ten participants and 29 wines. This time, our flights either featured half Cali and half Burgundy, or were all Cali or all Burgundy. Everything was poured blind. My WOTN was the '72 Remy Clos de la Roche, which was a much better bottle than one I tried earlier in the year. The best overall flight, not surprisingly, was the Grand Cru red Burgundy flight, closely followed by the younger Cali Chard and white Burg flight. Chef Peter Armellino and his staff did a stupendous job, as usual, on the food. Delicious company, great food and lovely wines.
Flight 1 - Brain Teaser Opening Flight (4 Notes)
While David was getting the rest of our blind flights ready, he had us taste through this flight and gave us a few clues. We were guessing Chardonnay (although a few of us had our doubts about the varietal on a couple of them), and we were guessing California, but having trouble getting correct answers that were more specific than that. The Mount Carmels seemed a lot weaker to me than the Sweeney Canyons, and I confess I did not pick up any of the "liqueur of rocks-like component reminiscent of a Chassagne-Montrachet grand cru," that Mr. Parker, in the latest issue of WA, alleges can be found in the '07 Brewer-Clifton Mount Carmel.
Flight 2 - Tweener Whackage (1 Note)
While we were still waiting to start our first official blind flight, George Kautzman--(in)famous for his huge stash of old California whites, most of which date back to the '70s--offered up a curiosity made by Joseph Swan's Rod Berglund from a field blend of white grapes grown on Angelo Frati's old hillside vineyard.
Flight 3 - Older White Burgs & Cali Chards (4 Notes)
The '05 Chablis somehow crept in, when it was supposed to be in flight 4. Maybe it sensed the presence of the oyster, which has such natural affinity for Chablis. I think the group's favorite below was the Mount Eden, which was very good. Several of us properly identified the Chablis as Chablis, and Mischa guessed Les Clos. The '85 Montrachet was dead as a doornail, which was particularly sad because Jeff and Mischa reported having had a really good bottle of it earlier in the year.
Kumomoto oyster w/ pressed caviar mignonette
Flight 4 - Younger White Burgs & Cali Chards (4 Notes)
This was a really lovely flight. The Rhys showed the best for me, closely followed by the Clair Corton-Charlemagne. The Kistler had an odd nose, and was tight, but otherwise very good.
black pepper & parmesan souffle, uni and Dungeness crab fondue
Flight 5 - Red Burgs - 1er Cru (4 Notes)
The Groffier Les Amoureuses really stood out in this flight, and I properly guessed that it was a Chambolle. It was a lucky happenstance that we got to taste the two Aux Malconsorts side by side.
artisan foie gras on last-of-season Olson's cherries, duck and Riesling jus and walnuts
Flight 6 - Cali Pinot pre-'99 (5 Notes)
In another fortuitous happenstance, we ended up with three '98 Rochiolis and a WS Riverblock in this flight. The group's WOTF was the '98 West Block, and the group's 2nd WOTF was the '97 WS Riverblock. The brett on both the West Block and East Block put me off a little, and I preferred the Little Hill. The '98 Testarossa may have been faulty, but was not in good shape.
Columbia River sturgeon and beef cheeks, with arugula, truffled olive cream and braised salsify
Flight 7 - Grand Cru Red Burg (6 Notes)
Such a lovely flight! The '98 Remoissenet Grands-Ech was sadly corked, but the rest of the flight was quite strong. 
South Texas antelope loin end, vanilla scented sweet potato with padrone pepper
Flight 8 - Sweet Finish (2 Notes)
The Massandra was not as stunning as many Massandras I've had, possibly because it was decanted too early. The '76 Baumard QdC VT was quite fascinating, and not at all as sweet as I would have expected.
"Baked California": meringue with creme fraiche ice cream, peach sorbet and California framboise and raspberry coulis
Closing
Mischa, Jeff, Chef Peter and Jayaram
Kim, Sandy and David
2001 Brewer-Clifton Chardonnay Sweeney Canyon 91 Points
USA, California, Central Coast, Sta. Rita Hills
Light golden yellow color; butter, butterscotch, baked lemon, pineapple nose; tight, spicy, tart lemon, quince and tart pineapple palate; medium-plus finish
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2005 Brewer-Clifton Chardonnay Sweeney Canyon 92 Points
USA, California, Central Coast, Sta. Rita Hills
Light medium gold color; nice floral, clarified butter, lime and mineral nose; sweet, tight, ripe lemon, ripe pineapple palate with grip; medium-plus finish
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2003 Brewer-Clifton Chardonnay Mount Carmel 86 Points
USA, California, Central Coast, Sta. Rita Hills
Light medium gold color; jasmine, ginger, orange cream nose with a touch of VA; low acid, dull, tart orange and tangerine palate that fades quickly; short finish
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2005 Brewer-Clifton Chardonnay Mount Carmel 89 Points
USA, California, Central Coast, Sta. Rita Hills
Light medium gold color; maple, oily, a little oxidized on nose; more mature, balanced, oaky, tart lemon, vanilla palate; medium finish
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