WLDG Offline - Robin Garr

here are some notes from the offline dinner held recently in celebration of Robin Garr’s short sojourn in Sydney; at the home of Kris ‘Bacchaebabe’, whose birthday it was, thus providing a joint reason for celebration. Keen to stem the tide of opinion that all wine flowing from Australian vineyards is in the form of oaky alcoholic stewed raspberry smoothies, and to give Robin some more exposure to local treasures (other than those already presented by his fellow judges at the Sydney Top 100 competition), all stops were pulled out by forum regulars & partners Kris & Lisa, PLCB & Pete, fred & Suzie, Muscat Mike, Junior, and Judith & me.

• 1990 Bollinger Champagne La Grande Année

  France, Champagne

  Certainly yeasty, but not stale in any way, with a creamy fine mousse, and a long warm finish. A big wine, but not clumsy or gauche in any way.

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• 1990 Seppelt Shiraz Show Sparkling Great Western

  Australia, Victoria, Western Victoria, Great Western

  A generally earthy & spicy nose – the generous might perhaps allow a smidgin of bitter chocolate. Some slightly aged leathery notes on the palate, but still quite rich with fine bead, and attractive weight & balance. A few more years won’t hurt…

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• 1986 Mount Pleasant Wines Sémillon Single Vineyard Lovedale

  Australia, New South Wales, Hunter Valley

  A light golden colour, this does have a little note of oxidation about it, but mostly shows smoked honey aromas with a pleasant oiliness on the palate. Wonderfully persistent and very drinkable. I wouldn’t expect any further positive development, though…

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• 1970 Lindeman's Hunter River Burgundy Bin 4110

  Australia, New South Wales, Hunter Valley

  Glowing light brick-red. Soft leathery nose. Classic Hunter, but in a good way…! Earthy characters are not over the top, although I don’t find much overt fruit character remaining. Satin-smooth on the palate, it’s very even across the tongue, warm and gentle, with a finish of medium length. Not in any obvious danger of falling over, either, even after some time in the glass.

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• 1983 Lindeman's Hunter River Burgundy Bin 6600

  Australia, New South Wales, Hunter Valley

  Not the ‘Classic Release’, as the previous wine was, but a magnum stored from new by fred. Still a very deep red colour, it showed rich spice and red earth notes – some development, but absurdly young for 20 years old. Not massively ‘sweaty’ at all, but a bold medium/large-bodied wine singing at its peak. There’s fresh acid, little obvious tannin, but many hard-to-pin-down nuances of development. Many years left in this bottle.

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• 2000 Mitchelton Airstrip

  Australia, Victoria, Central Victoria

  A solid yellow, this presents a caramel & almond nose with almost a hint of botrytis and woody spice. Expecting sugar on the palate, the surprise comes when this wine finishes startlingly dry, with an acidic, yet thick-textured wooliness. Very unusual indeed, heightened by some 16%abv. Almost like a bastard cross between a fino sherry and a Muscat-de-Baume-de-Venise, it’s most unusual, and an apt palate-cleanser or aperitif.

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• 2003 Mesh Riesling

  Australia, South Australia, Barossa, Eden Valley

  Pale straw, this wine (under screwcap, of course) is all powerful lime & lemon on the nose. The acid positively dances on the palate, with spritzig freshness and a wonderfully persistent finish. Super wine.

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• 1997 Tyrrell's Sémillon Reserve

  Australia, New South Wales, Hunter Valley, Belford

  Labelled ‘Trade Sample Only’ and apparently about to be released at retail; I don’t know how this differs, if at all, from the wine Tyrrell’s released to their Private Bin mail list back in 1997 as “Vat 18”. Anyway, this wine is carried by what almost seems to me a touch of residual sugar, some hight honey aromas, and soft clean acid. It’s fresh and clean, eminently drinkable, and probably less than 11% alcohol.

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• 1997 Wendouree Cabernet Malbec

  Australia, South Australia, Mount Lofty Ranges, Clare Valley

  Very dark wine, ridiculously young after the previous offerings of the evening, this wine has strong eucalypt (maybe even menthol) aromas. The palate is dominated by fine yet powerful, persistent tannins. It is quite mouth-filling, large and long, but thankfully not hot on the finish. Needs time.

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• 1963 Dow Porto Vintage

  Portugal, Douro, Porto

  Lifted alcoholic nose with liquorice and chocolate notes follow through on the palate with a pleasing warmth and long rich finish. What a young, attractive wine!

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• 1963 Sandeman Porto Vintage

  Portugal, Douro, Porto

  Much lighter and less forward than Dow’s, this has choco-strawberry aromas, and warm alcoholic palate which lacks the sophistication of the other wine. Attractive in a lighter vein, it’s not falling over yet by any means, as opposed to some of the guests at the dinner , no, no, I’m just joking.

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A wonderful time was had by all – maybe we’re setting a precedent for offlines away from restaurants. It’s hard to beat a home BBQ, glasses and decanters all lined up, cellar near to hand in case the TCA demon strikes. Thanks to all concerned, and we look forward to next time.