NobleRottersSydney - Tamar Trip Sep04 (1): West Tamar

The Noble Rotters set off on September 3-5, 2004 for the Tamar Valley, northern Tasmania.

About the most northerly of all the West Tamar wineries, Holm Oak’s vineyards are surveyed as you drive up the winding dirt path towards the house. We had lots of in-depth discussion with winemaker Nick Butler (in one of the world’s smallest cellar doors) about yield management, riesling irrigation, and the difficulties of successfully aging sometimes green-flavoured wines. No retail distribution in Sydney due mostly to extremely small volumes. Pinot Noir already sold out.

• 2003 Holm Oak Riesling

  Australia, Tasmania, Tamar Valley

  ($20, screwcap) A greenish/pale straw colour, this has a faintly sulphurous but mostly attractive nose of green apple and honeydew. Fresh lemon/lime acid follows on the palate, and, despite the sweetish aromas, the finish is assertively dry. Apart from the heavier texture, could almost pass for a Mosel Kabinett wine. Good wine.

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• 2003 Holm Oak Rosé

  Australia, Tasmania, Tamar Valley

  (A$15, screwcap) Quite a light pink with a light ripe cherry nose. Clean flavours, with a light body and a cherry-fruit front palate balance. Not particularly tart, nor obviously sweet, it’s refreshing enough for those hot Tasmanian summers…

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• 2003 Holm Oak Shiraz

  Australia, Tasmania, Tamar Valley

  The first crop. “Bit of an experiment” Nick said. All crimson in colour, it presents a strong white pepper nose. There’s no chocolate here. The palate is acidic and incredibly tannic. ‘Under-fruited’ is the best term. A research wine, not for drinking…

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• 2002 Holm Oak Cabernet Sauvignon

  Australia, Tasmania, Tamar Valley

  (A$25, cork) Mid red. This wine rather set the stage for all the cabernets to come. Lots of asparagus on the nose – very pronounced cool-climate herbaceous fruits. The palate is dry and severe, broad and tannic, with distinctly green touches – yet the alcohol level is a respectable 13.2%. Nick reckons it improves considerably with food, and it’s true the palate balance is quite good, but in all honesty it’s a bit marginal, and needs just a bit more fruit.

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Tamar Ridge: Presently in the midst of extensive expansion of vineyards with over 35ha of recently prepared vineyards visible (trellising and irrigation all complete, but no actual vines in the ground yet!). Two labels involved – the ‘budget’ Devil’s Corner range, and the estate label wines. A larger commercial operation, we had a sales guy behind the CD counter, so less technical information was forthcoming. Tamar Ridge is now owned by Gunns, the Tasmanian-based old-forest loggers and environmental vandals. Boycotted by me since this tasting.

• 2003 Tamar Ridge Riesling

  Australia, Tasmania, Northern Tasmania

  (A$18, screwcap) A light honey nose with floral overtones. Spritzy acid on the palate, which is very much balanced on the tip of the tongue. But it’s tasty and attractive, with a pleasant dry finish.

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• 2003 Tamar Ridge Gewürztraminer

  Australia, Tasmania, Northern Tasmania

  (A$20, screwcap) Classic in-the-mould nose of flowers, roses and musk. Palate shows good acid, oiliness is minimal. Medium length finish. A front palate balance, but still a pretty good wine.

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• 2001 Tamar Ridge Chardonnay

  Australia, Tasmania, Northern Tasmania

  (A$20, cork) A light nebulous nose here, very reticent after the previous two wines which were keen to fire their aromas out of the glass. Here’s there’s just a little melon fruit with a touch of cream. The palate shows little obvious malo character, although the acid feel is on the soft side. Oak is nicely understated. There’s not great length of flavour, but the wine is quite pleasant, and in the context of the price, it’s a very good alternative to the many blowsy commercial chardies still around the place.

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• 2003 Tamar Ridge Pinot Noir

  Australia, Tasmania

  (A$24, cork) It’s a light brick red, with a slightly dull look to it. Sour cherry aromas, with some light game touches. The palate has a feel of highly macerated fruit to it, with fuzzy, furry tannins which tend to dominate the rather low fruit, short finish. Others felt the ($3 cheaper and) lighter-coloured Devil’s Corner pinot was a better wine, the fruit not being asked to handle as much oak, nor work the press so hard.

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• 2002 Tamar Ridge Cabernet Merlot

  Australia, Tasmania, Tamar Valley

  (A$25, cork) More leafy aromas, with asparagus fruit, although this has some underlying blackcurrant fruit as well. Not under-ripe, just very, very, cool! Attractive wine at the price.

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• 1999 Tamar Ridge Cabernet Sauvignon Cellar Reserve

  Australia, Tasmania, Tamar Valley

  (A$32, cork) A slightly dirty looking brick red colour, this wine presents some blackcurrant, coffee and dark chocolate aromas. The palate flavours follow the nose; the palate is nicely covered by all the well-balanced components of this wine. Drinking nicely now, its elegant, cool-but-ripe flavours will no doubt stay a few more years, but I think this is peaking nicely.

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• 2001 Tamar Ridge Riesling Josef Chromy Pipers Brook Vineyard

  Australia, Tasmania, Northern Tasmania

  (375ml A$21, cork) Named for the since-sold-out founder of the estate, this is pale straw with a distinct green tinge to the colour. There are pungent apricot, caramel and toffee notes, but they have a tightness to them. The palate is quite light-bodied, the textures contrasting to the NSW Riverina sticky style. The acid is fresh and crisp, although not hugely persistent, and the shortish finish suggests a wine better suited to pre-dinner aperitifs than full blown desserts.

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The coast road to our luncheon venue took us right past the front door of the Iron Pot Bay winery, and it seemed somehow silly to be so close and not call in to Iron Pot Bay. An idyllic location, right on the banks of the Tamar, with an old guesthouse doing duty as cellar door. If ever a winery took advantage of its location, it’s this one. Cute labels, all wines sealed under screwcap, and fairly priced around the $20-$25 mark. Local distribution only (and national mail list of course).
I see from the website that the vineyards have been in operation for over 15 years, and fruit is supplied to Hardy’s as well. Moreover, previous vintages of the wine have won significant statewide awards, and been served in Qantas’ first class lounge. For those first 10 years until 1999 the wines were made by Andrew Hood. As I found these current release wines disappointing overall, I hope that the change to Andrew Pirie as the winemaker from the 2004 vintage will lift them away from what is their slightly bland present character and past glories can be reclaimed. One to watch.

• 2003 Iron Pot Bay Riesling Vividus Unwooded

  Australia, Tasmania, Tamar Valley

  Almost colourless, this offers light citric aromas. It’s a lean palate, adding a hint of musk fruit, some smoky minerality as texture, and a pleasant light finish.

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• 2001 Iron Pot Bay Gewürztraminer

  Australia, Tasmania, Tamar Valley

  Again almost clear. Lightly rosy and floral. Very lean on the palate, almost to the point where I wonder about the ripeness of the fruit. Not so great.

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• 2003 Iron Pot Bay Pinot Grigio

  Australia, Tasmania, Tamar Valley

  Clear. Some wet minerally stone fruit aromas. The palate is quite acidic, but the fruit flavours are very bland. Hmmmm.

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• 2003 Iron Pot Bay Pinot Noir Wooded

  Australia, Tasmania, Tamar Valley

  Crimson red. A very leafy nose. Sour red fruits on the palate, which is otherwise quite soft, with most of the impact on the tip of the tongue. Short finish.

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• 2001 Iron Pot Bay Cabernet Sauvignon

  Australia, Tasmania, Tamar Valley

  The third cellar door to somewhat defensively tell us, prior to tasting, that only locals buy the cabernet sauvignon. Outsiders doubtless find them too green; I imagine therefore that locals find commercial warm-climate wines to be too hot! Here there are coffee and blackcurrant aromas, with some green fruit/herbaceous touches. The palate is hugely tannic – austere and forbidding. Somehow I doubt the fruit will survive the tannic cloak in which it’s hidden…

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• 2002 Iron Pot Bay Sémillon Sweet

  Australia, Tasmania, Tamar Valley

  (375ml) Almost clear. A somewhat rubbery, sulphurous nose. Not much fruit here. The palate offers sugar without ripeness, and this leaves the wine somehow austere. I wanted to like it, but I couldn’t. Evidently made with some süssreserve, this might explain its similarity to the more derided forms of German QbA wine…

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Half way up the western Tamar, Rosevears has recently secured the winemaking services of Tasmanian legend and industry father Dr Andrew Pirie.
The pinot reserve with lunch, the others at a tasting afterwards. Another operation since purchased by Gunns.

• 2000 Rosevears Estate Pinot Noir Reserve

  Australia, Tasmania, Tamar Valley

  (A$59, cork) Ripe strawberry aromas, with soft gamey notes, and some forest floor as well. This offers lovely warmth on the palate, a silky mouthfeel, and a good persistent finish. Structural components discretely highlight the fruit – there’s no awareness of acid or tannin as separate parts of the wine. It’s a little light on the back palate, but that’s a very small criticism of a most attractive wine. Supporting evidence for the acclaim the 2000 Tasmanian Pinot vintage received when many of the wines were first released 2 years ago.

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• 1997 Rosevears Estate Brut

  Australia, Tasmania, Tamar Valley

  (A$35, cork) Some strawberry and biscuit on the nose. A somewhat muted palate, with a coarse bead. A fair quaffer – grossly overpriced.

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• 2002 Rosevears Estate Riesling

  Australia, Tasmania, Tamar Valley

  (A$29, screwcap) Nearly colourless. Fresh apple fruit aromas. The palate is quite full bodied – strong rich citric flavours with some steeliness. Medium length finish. Good wine.

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• 2003 Rosevears Estate Pinot Noir

  Australia, Tasmania, Tamar Valley

  (A$35, cork) Light crimson. Bright cherry/strawberry fruit. Some tartness on the palate, but it’s a bit short with a rather simple finish. Spend the extra money on the Reserve.

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• 2001 Rosevears Estate Merlot

  Australia, Tasmania, Tamar Valley

  (A$30, cork) Mid red. Deep plumy and chocolate aromas, with some coarse woody spice. Clunky tannins dominate the palate – another second-rate merlot!

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Friday night dinner was arranged at MUD in Launceston, a casual winebar/bistro/restaurant establishment near the river bank. Food was very good, the wine list was limited in scope, but very good value. Split tables for a group of 12; we abandoned Tasmania for the evening and had

• 2001 Wild Duck Creek Yellow Hammer Hill

  Australia, Victoria, Central Victoria, Heathcote

  (A$45, cork) Deep red. Raspberry, blackberry & chocolate aromas. The palate adds a warm, spicy overlay, but not particularly focused or intense. Fair wine.

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• 2001 Bowen Estate Shiraz

  Australia, South Australia, Limestone Coast, Coonawarra

  Mid/deep red with a flash of crimson. A mulberry nose with more than a dash of white pepper and vanillan american oak spiciness. The palate has fine-grained tannins, and some leafier flavours emerge as well. Some medium strength acid keeps it fresh, a moderate length finish is helped by an even palate balance. Not a blockbuster in any way, but a good ‘elegant’ Coonawarra shiraz in a more old fashioned style.

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see part 2 for East Tamar notes and Stillwater dinner.