Wines From Barolo and Barbaresco
Barolo
Tasted Friday, September 18, 2009 by markjanes with 1,162 views
Introduction
Of all the major wine regions in the world, Piedmont has always been the one I have understood the least. I have never had any close wine friends who have collected or been Piedmont nuts and I had never been there to visit. Over the years I have had largely hit and miss experiences with the wines… though have never really put much effort into understanding them or the region. That changed back in early September. Armed a new copy of Wine Atlas of the Langhe (a book I highly recommend) off I was.
Flight 1 - 9/7/9 Lunch with Gaia Gaja in Barbaresco and dinner in Treisa at Tornavento (3 Notes)
Had the Gaja with Gaia at lunch and decided to have a battle of the 2001's, La Morra vs. Monforte at Tornavento, formal but quite nice.
Flight 2 - 9/8/9 Dinner at Enoclub in Alba (2 Notes)
Only day the wine didn't flow at lunch... Enoclub was a bit overrated.
Flight 3 - 9/9/9 Lunch in La Mora and dinner at Pio Boffa's house in Barbaresco (4 Notes)
I must say I was slightly disappointed by the wines at Pio Cessare. Stylistically they try to be an in between style with some barrique aging and some cask aging. There is even a huge cement tank for use with Dolcetto and Barberas. I felt the wines lacked clarity and focus though to be fair I didn’t taste a wide range of their wines. Pio Boffa's hospitality was warm and generous.
Flight 4 - 9/10/9 Lunch at Belvedere in La Mora and dinner at Lalibera in Alba (2 Notes)
I would highly recommend both restaurants... Lalibera is a more modern take on the cuisine of Piedmont.
Flight 5 - 9/11/9 Lunch at Borgo Antico and dinner at Bovio (3 Notes)
Last night in Piedmont... both restaurants I would highly recommend as well... Borgo Antico was probably the best restaurant of the entire trip.
Flight 6 - 9/12/9 Lunch at Trattoria la Posta outside Castiglione (1 Note)
Again, highly recommended spot to dine.
Flight 7 - 9/13/19 Dinner at Hotel Splendido in Portofino, Italy (1 Note)
Even though the Barolo trip was over, couldn't resist staying on theme for an average dinner at one of the nicest hotels I have ever stayed at.
Flight 8 - 9/15/9 Dinner at Cinghiale, Baltimore, MD on my birthday... half price off all wines so stretched out my "Barolo Festival" one more day (3 Notes)
Was great to be back home in the States... if I lived in this area I would be here every Wednesday for half off wines, their list is nice... food was very good as well.
Closing
It was a great experience… Piedmont is like Burgundy… a place where the importance of site seems to soar above other variables such as fermentation temperature and maceration techniques, a place where the wines aren’t easy to understand and you really have to taste texturally to appreciate and fully understand them. It was a fantastic trip and I’m sure I will return soon... the kind of place you could spend a lifetime trying to understand the nuances of the wines and sites.
2005 Gaja Barbaresco 88 Points
Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco
Slightly lighter in color than the 2006 (very light color)… the fruits are more deep in flavor and style though still primarily red and very fresh in nature. The wine has a strong floral component and was lightly spiced with barrique oak. There is less of the strong “acidic,” transparent, fresh note to the fruit and the fruit is a bit more ripe. Less floral… on the palate much fuller than the 2006 though quite similar really… high acidity, less taut midpalate that is still moderately wide, a moderately tannic, of less firmness than the 2006, finish that is quite fine in nature. More approachable young than the 2006, softer and more gentle version. Give it 7 to 10 years. You can argue it’s overpriced, but I think it’s nearly impossible to argue this isn’t excellent Barbaresco.
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2001 Elio Altare Barolo Vigneto Arborina 95 Points
Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
2001 Elio Altare Arborina Barolo
Very aromatic with chalky, red cherry fruits. Very floral and slight hint of dusty herbs and mowed grass. Wine transforms into a very root beer, tar, and fennel thing before finishing the evening getting richer and rounder, more perfumed and earthy at the end. On the palate the wine is of medium + acidity, a very round and broad midpalate, a very smooth transition into a well integrated, very fine tannin finish of moderate power. Very balanced, good length, good intensity and complexity to spare. A wine of supreme finesse, great texture, and very true to its La Morra roots. Drinks well today, but will age 20+ years.
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2001 Domenico Clerico Barolo Ciabot Mentin Ginestra 93 Points
Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
Less overt aromatics, darker fruits, more forest floor and dark, oak spice. Over the night never achieves the aromatic complexity of the Altare, but throws in some chocolate cake and tree bark aromas. On the palate pitchier with its acid, a tighter, less broad midpalate that transitions seamlessly into a more structured, but well integrated tannin finish. Very balanced, slightly less length than Altare, less complexity though still high, perhaps more intensity on the palate. A little less finesse than the Arborina though very nice and more masculine texture… very Monforte with its darkness, richness, and firmness. Drinks a little less than its potential today, will age 20++ years.
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