Margaret River
Tasted Sunday, September 20, 2009 - Monday, September 21, 2009 by Alex H with 1,286 views
Margaret River was supposed to be the next exciting thing to happen to Australia which I partly agree. There are already established wineries and actually half of the vineyards along the main Caves roads are probably familiar names to many. However, there are still many unfamiliar names to explore. Due to increasing international pressure and criticisms, I noted the wines have toned down on oak and bigness with more taking a elegant approach. In particular, the whites seem to be heading towards the "advised" style of clean fresh fruits without the "bastardization" of overripe fruits, vanilla oak sweetness and butteriness. One thing I hope is that the vineyards don't just follow the latest fad and copy each other's style to make seemingly similar wines. I find that many of the whites being made are too closely matched in style with each other.
A vineyard I picked out that was closer to where we stayed. This was awarded 5 red stars by James Halliday too. Found many interesting varietals and they actually made quite a range of wines. However, most were okay to good wines with nothing exceptional.
A winery just opposite my hotel. This is a fairly new "negociant" winery that purchases their fruit from margaret river. Was suprised to find out that the 1st ever vintage of the 2004 cab blend took the jimmy watson award! which was unheard of previously. Fortunately or unfortunately, that winemaker that won the award is moving on and being replaced by ex winemaker of Voyager estate. Apparenly, by purchasing fruit and not growing their own, the winery is able to source only the "best" for making of the wines. At the moment, I don't feel the consistency in quality of their wines but was quite delighted by the roses. Hopefully, they will improve further.
The most posh and french bordeaux chateau like vineyard in the whole trip. Lovely place for lunch too. The vineyards are beautiful but smelt of aristocratic snobbery. The wines were , of cos, in a higher class on average and firmly sits on the list of bigwig wineries in Margaret River. I like it and I heard they recently had their winemaker move on to Flametree wines. Also, they had a change in direction a few vintages back to pursue cleaner fruit flavours and using more french oak and adopting more elegance in their wines.
The absolute big brother to Voyager and sits side by side to Voyager as well. However, I find a very different type of winery here. It feels more aussie but also in a regal aussie royalty way. The whites were quite good in general with interesting suprises on their shiraz. I had another winemaker in Swan tell me that they went around "testing" soil samples in Margaret river and found that only Leeuwin's was sitting on gravelly soil providing for better drainage. I guess this terroir shows in their famed art series chards.
The other really visually pleasing winery with a nice lake and artisitically decorated and designed winery / restaurant. Despite grandeur, the wines were dissappointingly so so with only the chard and sweet wine showing well. I thought too much oak (despite it being french) being used. The bottle packaging looks artistic but somehow there is a sorta commercial bastardization to the wines.
A very unassuming wood structured small winery that I kinda like. The small scale dedication shows in the wines but really evidently in their chardonnays. A french winemaker in Swan commented that the only winemaker she knew that went all out to respect terroir in Margaret River is in Pierro. Well that really does say much about their wines. The Chards are really good but can't say the same for their reds though.
A boutique winery that has gained an increasing following in recent years. The whites are so so but the reds , in particular the cabernet sauvignons, are one of the best in the region. I adore the reserve straight cabs but they don't come cheap now. The winery is very clinical and somewhat bare but I guess that is their way of keeping unneccesary costs down. Noted some commercialization development from the winemaker's daughter but hope they don't change what they have been doing well in the past.
An up and coming "cult", next-big-thing vineyard that has developed quite a following as well.The winery looked quite clinical , cold and commerical though. The sweet wines here seem to be more popular and gaining quite a reputation. I do agree with their sweet wines but price wise, they are not very QPR. Hope they don't overshoot their fame by overpricing their wines.
Supposedly one of the first few wineries established in the region and does have a "first growth" status in the region . The winery is impressive and huge with lots of artistic scultures. However, I find the wines displaying commmercialization with profits rather than passion driving the outfit. The top wines were not a available for tasting and I do hope the quality matches the price and hype but from what I get so far, I just think it would be a good wine that any other talented winemaker in australia can make.
A new winery that was recommended by my brother. He likes their sweet wines. Unfortunately , I only had time to taste a few of their offerings but I find their style a little too woody but it reflects their label.
2006 Happs Sémillon Marrimee 78 Points
Australia, Western Australia, South West Australia, Margaret River
(9/21/2009)
Mainly made up of semillion with some chard. This is crisp, pristine gooseberries and grapefruit on the nose. Very interesting wine. A bit of spicy white fruits and some bitter fruit too.
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2008 Happs Sémillon Sauvignon Blanc 79 Points
Australia, Western Australia, South West Australia, Margaret River
(9/21/2009)
Lots of grassy, lively gooseberries with bitter pith and lots of minerals.
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2006 Happs Three Hills Eva Marie 81 Points
Australia, Western Australia, South West Australia, Margaret River
(9/21/2009)
This seriously smells like the air surrounding the vineyard with lots of karri forests trees perfuming the wine. A dry wine with lots of wet stones and citurs pith.
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2007 Happs Chardonnay 80 Points
Australia, Western Australia, South West Australia, Margaret River
(9/21/2009)
Again I get the smells of the surronding karri forest trees in the wine. Lemon skins, pith and french barrique shows. Very balanced effort with nice spiciness. Feels somewhat chablis like but with more citrus fruits.
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2006 Happs Chardonnay 3 Hills 84 Points
Australia, Western Australia, South West Australia, Margaret River
(9/21/2009)
Lovely lemon custard with nice mineral undertones and nice complementary toasty almonds and vanilla butter. Still quite elegant and well put together.
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2005 Happs Pinot Noir 74 Points
Australia, Western Australia, South West Australia, Margaret River
(9/21/2009)
Lifted spicy berries with smoky black peppercorns. Bitter and a little disturbing.
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2006 Happs Nebbiolo Three Hills Margaret River 75 Points
Australia, Western Australia, South West Australia, Margaret River
(9/21/2009)
Smooky white pepper , a bit dry, a bit rough and a bit bitter with disturbing smoky finish.
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2007 Happs Merlot 3 Hills 72 Points
Australia, Western Australia, South West Australia, Margaret River
(9/21/2009)
Smoky awkward and bitter harsh tannins.
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2009 Happs Merlot 74 Points
Australia, Western Australia, South West Australia, Margaret River
(9/21/2009)
rounder merlot than the 3 hills version but still a bit lean.
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2004 Happs Fortis Margaret River 83 Points
Australia, Western Australia, South West Australia, Margaret River
(9/21/2009)
Unlike a traditional port, ths is rather lighter on the nose. Palate wise, stilll jammy like strawberry breakfast muffins. Full bodied toasted coffee beans and dark choc. Pwdery tannins. Lush and velvety with coatings of dark fruits. Unfortunately , short finish.
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2003 Happs Charles Andreas Three Hills 82 Points
Australia, Western Australia, South West Australia, Margaret River
(9/21/2009)
Aussie eucalyptus mintyness . Velvety mouthfeel of plummy characteristics. Some cough mixture lift.
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