Elderton Command Shiraz Blindtasting - '92-'96

Introductory comments by tasting organizer Ross Bott:
Many consider Penfolds Grange to be one of the best wines in the world, in the same class as first growth Bordeaux, the top single vineyard Hermitages, and the Harlans, Colgin, Caymus Special Selections, and Screaming Eagles of California. Less well known, but comparable in quality and reputation are the Elderton Command Shirazes. And there are many parallels between the two.

Elderton first produced a Command Shiraz in 1984. Like Grange, the strategy is to pick the very best barrels from each vintage, with the vineyard sources varying from year to year according to where the best quality was found. Like Grange (and Etienne Guigal's La Mouline and La Landonne Hermitages), the Command is given extensive oak aging before release, first a year in new French and American oak barrels, then an additional two years in older barrels. The wines are then bottled, but held another two years before release. The best Syrahs, whether they come from Barossa Valley or the Rhone Valley, are able to absorb a lot of oak without becoming unbalanced, with the oak gradually submerging and integrating into the wine over the first decade. And like Grange, Robert Parker and the Wine Spectator agree on their high praise of the Commands, something they often don't do with respect to Australian Shiraz.

The Commands are extravagantly rich when young, seemingly almost overpowering. However, with a decade of aging, they settle down into a more moderate style, while still showing amazing depth and layering. The wines are capable of 20 or more years of aging.

Tonight, we'll try four Elderton Commands from 1992 through 1996.

• 1996 Elderton Shiraz Single Vineyard Command 92 Points

  Australia, South Australia, Barossa

  Group's #1 (my #3) – 17 pts; 4 1st place votes, 3 2nd place votes, 2 thirds, 0 last places – dark red violet color with pale meniscus; blackberry, berry, sage, sweet green herbs nose; big, tightish, blackberry, berry, sweet green herb palate; long finish 92+ pts.

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• 1992 Elderton Shiraz Single Vineyard Command 93 Points

  Australia, South Australia, Barossa

  Group's #2 (my #1) – 19 pts; 2, 4, 3, 0 - dark cherry red color with pale meniscus; lovely and defined black fruit, blackberry, fig and graphite nose; find, blackberry, black fruit, berry palate; medium-plus finish 93+ pts.

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• 1994 Elderton Shiraz Single Vineyard Command 93 Points

  Australia, South Australia, Barossa

  Group's #3 (my #2) – 27 pts; 1, 2, 2, 4 - dark red violet color with pale meniscus; chocolate cream pie, mocha, blackberry syrup, licorice nose; tasty, mocha, dark chocolate, fig and tart blackberry palate; medium-plus finish

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• 1995 Elderton Shiraz Single Vineyard Command 91 Points

  Australia, South Australia, Barossa

  Group's #4 (my #4) – 27 pts; 2, 1, 1, 5 - slightly bricking dark red violet color with pale meniscus; graphite, smoke and coffee nose; solid graphite, tart fig and coffee palate; long finish 91+ pts. (smells and tastes like what I imagine a big, modern, oaky, Parkerized Right Bank Bordeaux will taste like with 12 or more years of bottle age)

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