Best of the Best Wine Class, Fall 05

As is customary for this long-running continuing ed. class series, one class per term is devoted to tasting top caliber red wines from around the world. This format is always a little problematic as they are typically newer releases (as the instructor is also in the retail business), there is no opportunity for decanting, and the flavor/style continuity that might come with a more focused tasting is lost. Regardless, it's always an informative and enjoyable class and tonight's was no different…besides how often do you get to sip Margaux and Hillside Select in a computer room?

Wines were served non-blind, one-at-a-time in the order listed.

• 1999 Château Margaux 92 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Margaux

  Extracted ruby/purple in color with a slight fading towards the rim. Seductive perfumey yet at the same time slightly muted nose of sweet cedar, violets, black raspberry, and black tea. Flavors of anise and spicy currant dominate a surprisingly fruit forward profile. Some chewy aspects to the mouthfeel , with a decent mid-palate, brightening acidity, well-defined but subtle tannins, and a 50 sec + finish. Some thought it closed and monolithic, but to me it was drinking nicely right now and probably has 10-15 years aging to peak.

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• 2003 Clos des Papes Châteauneuf-du-Pape 90 Points

  France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape

  Here we go again…this seemed even more the out-of-control roller-coaster ride of a wine than when I'd had it before, although following the 99 Margaux probably didn't help. Color was medium weight garnet, belying the intense nose to follow. Notes of soy sauce, strawberry jam, raisins, butterscotch, and concentrated orange peel burst from the glass, some aspects of which were reminiscent of a PX Sherry. In the mouth were sweet red fruit and briary flavors, followed by a slightly hot and clipped tannic finish. There's certainly a lot going on here, but I'm curious if 10+ years of age will bring things around in more balance and build more textural complexity.

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• 2003 d'Arenberg Shiraz The Dead Arm 93 Points

  Australia, South Australia, Fleurieu, McLaren Vale

  As one would expect, color was opaque black-purple to the rim. Even with extensive aeration this wasn't giving much on the nose (decanting would have helped most if not all of the wines) , but I did pick up rich cassis, rhubarb, white roses, pepper, and eucalyptus. Pronounced glycerin-like in texture, with deep plumy and buttery/toast flavors. Long and satisfying finish, with noticeable tannins, a fruit bomb without being flabby or over-extracted.

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• 2001 Viñedos de Páganos Rioja El Puntido 88 Points

  Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alavesa, Rioja

  Served blind, I imagine few would have pegged this as a Rioja or Tempranillo-based wine…as dark in color, if not more so, than the Dead Arm. Strong oak on the nose, with graphite, slate, licorice, tomato, and muted green pepper – there was obvious seepage through the cork, and some thought it a tad oxidized, although I didn't find it off-putting. Chewy, thick flavors of balsamic, molasses, black cherry, and espresso, backed up by assertive, raw tannins. Needs time. Interesting wine, but I prefer the more traditional expressions of the grape.

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• 2001 Tenuta dell'Ornellaia Bolgheri Superiore Ornellaia 96 Points

  Italy, Tuscany, Bolgheri, Bolgheri Superiore

  Deep black-ruby in color. Ah Cabernet…this would have better followed the Margaux, but c'est la vie. Sweet, fragrant perfume of vanilla, black currant, anise, cloves, new leather, and wet earth. Terrific mouthful of kirsch and smoky black fruits, wrapped inside a luscious, creamy texture. Admirable balance of components and a minute-plus finish rounded out with sweet, fine tannins. Very approachable and fun to drink now, this would clearly hold it's own with a Medoc classified growth.

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• 2001 Shafer Cabernet Sauvignon Hillside Select 98 Points

  USA, California, Napa Valley, Stags Leap District

  Way too young, and in need of some serious decanter time, but a treat nonetheless. Monochromatic, deep purple in color. While still pretty tightly wound, aromas of cassis, toasty sweet oak/vanilla, pencil lead, dark chocolate, mint, and eucalyptus eased from the glass. Amazing, brooding clarity of flavor with lush essence of black currants and a super mid-palate. Longest finish of the group, with plenty of dusty, but not overly-assertive tannins. Special stuff – flawless New World Cabernet – needs a decade of bottle age, but providing plenty of drinking enjoyment right now.

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Despite the broad range of tasting experience amongst the participants, the Ornellaia and HSS were clearly the favorites of the group, although they probably benefited somewhat from being open several hours by the time they were poured. The Clos des Papes and Puntido, not surprisingly, garnered the most divergent opinions.