Aligoté and Gevrey villages over lunch

A wine pages offline at which ten of us came together to share a range of aligotés and Gevreys. 1er and grand crus were banned but in the event, virtually all the Gevreys brought along were luxury villages given the 1er cru treatment. The aligotés freshened up our palates, but it was the reds that provided the enjoyment. Aside from the faulty wines, they proved a very consistent group. The Maume Pallud was generally agreed to be the WOTD - the cheapest on show.

• 2007 Domaine Rollin Père et Fils Bourgogne-Aligoté 88 Points

  France, Burgundy, Bourgogne-Aligoté

  Bright, fresh, floral and lemony, with a pure crystalline quality, very attractive

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• 2007 Guilhem et Jean-Hugues Goisot Bourgogne-Aligoté 87 Points

  France, Burgundy, Bourgogne-Aligoté

  Much deeper colour than the Rollin, bigger, riper, a lot of bite not just from the acidity, but also from the sulphur, chablis-like with its oyster shell and wet wool aroma - the sulphur grew more pronounced in the glass

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• 2005 A. et P. de Villaine Aligoté Bouzeron 86 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte Chalonnaise, Bouzeron

  Baked apple fruit, rubbery and stewed, round and substantial, but not attractive to me

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• 2002 Domaine Ponsot Morey-Saint-Denis 1er Cru Clos des Monts Luisants Vieilles Vignes 91 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Morey-Saint-Denis 1er Cru

  Sharp, mineral and toasty, really bites, and shows fantastic depth - a spirity manzanilla quality got more prominent as it sat in the glass - the first sips were the best.

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• 1977 Domaine Ponsot Morey-Saint-Denis 1er Cru Clos des Monts Luisants Blanc 87 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Morey-Saint-Denis 1er Cru

  Pungent, farmyardy even, broad, waxy and with searing acidity - a big interesting wine, but not charming

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• 2007 Philippe Pacalet Gevrey-Chambertin 89 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin

  Pale, sappy, with a sweet strawberry fragrance, had the soft texture of a natural wine, extremely pretty

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• 2006 Domaine Philippe Naddef Gevrey-Chambertin Vieilles Vignes 89 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin

  Dark, very spicy oak, full, grippy - good substantial wine, but very young and although approachable not showing much gevreyness today.

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• 2006 Domaine Louis Boillot et Fils Gevrey-Chambertin Les Evocelles 90 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin

  Purple tinged, smooth, blueberry fruit, jammy but not heavy at all, fresh in fact, fine structure, very pretty

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• 1999 Domaine Maume Gevrey-Chambertin En Pallud 92 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin

  A real blast of Gevrey, earth, iron, game, bursting with freshness and with that Maume edge, substantial - very exciting

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• 1999 Serafin Père et Fils Gevrey-Chambertin Vieilles Vignes Flawed

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin

  Clearly corked and unlike the others stayed clearly corked

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• 1999 Claude Dugat Gevrey-Chambertin 89 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin

  Mint and chocolate, smooth, fine fruit, still young - another very attractive oaky wine which needs time to show its Gevrey credentials

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• 2003 Hospices de Nuits Gevrey-Chambertin Les Champs-Chenys Cuvée Irene Noblet 89 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin

  Fresh, ripe, open, lots of sweet sappy pinot, easy and delicious

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• 1998 Serafin Père et Fils Gevrey-Chambertin Vieilles Vignes 89 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin

  Pale, lots of sweet, smoky, gamey fruit, the oak all integrated, very gevrey

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• 1998 Domaine Alain Burguet Gevrey-Chambertin Vieilles Vignes 90 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin

  Grippy earthy pinot, with a real edge, but bags of pinot fruit, substantial wine lovely

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• 1988 Domaine Alain Burguet Gevrey-Chambertin Vieilles Vignes 89 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin

  Smoky, bonfire palate, salty, earthy, grippy, but still compelling

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• 1993 Domaine Denis Bachelet Gevrey-Chambertin Vieilles Vignes

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin

  At first this showed a marked cork taint, although it was possible to see through this to a wonderful, fresh, edgy gamey wine, not unlike the Maume in its energy. And the taint did seem to diminish over time.

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• 1996 Domaine Denis Mortet Gevrey-Chambertin En Motrot

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin

  Another one which started off with a cork taint and then seemed to pull itself together. No sign of over-oaking or over-extraction here - it turned into a very attractive mellow gamey Gevrey.

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• 1989 Domaine Huet Vouvray Moelleux 1ère Trie Clos du Bourg

  France, Loire Valley, Touraine, Vouvray

  Toasty and earthy, fine sweet chenin fruit, sharp, lively and refreshing

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