1998 Chateauneuf du Pape vs. Aussie GSM Blindtasting

Introduction by tasting organizer Ross Bott:
We have held several Chateauneuf du Pape tastings covering many of the top Chateauneufs in 1998, 1999 and 2000 vintages over the past couple years, each time with an Australian GSM (Grenache-Syrah-Mourvedre) ringer or two from the same vintage. Remarkably the Australian ringer has almost always won or placed second. Perhaps even more remarkably, even experienced wine tasters had trouble determining which of the wines were Chateauneufs and which ones Aussie GSMs. This belies the common belief that Australian Syrahs and GSMs are over the top rich and concentrated but in a different universe than their Rhone counterparts. It also contradicts another common assumption that Australian Rhone-styled wines don't age well. If anything, it often seemed that the Australian GSMs were younger tasting than the Chateauneufs from the same year. To be clear, almost all of the Chateauneufs we tried from these vintages were showing very well; it's just that the GSMs showed even better.

Tonight we'll test these results with a group of top 1998 Australian GSMs and Chateauneufs. The 1998 vintage was an outstanding one in both regions, and a landmark year in that it was the beginning of the "modern era" for both. The Chateauneuf du Pape appellation and the South Australian regions both became much more well known that year (partially because of rave reviews from both the Wine Advocate and Wine Specator), and many more wineries and domaines were exported to the US for the first time.

This was the 2nd time I've attended a comparison of '98 CdP and Aussie GSM with this group, and it's the 2nd time that the Hattrick came in at or near the top. And according to the label, it's an interesting blend of Grenache and Cabernet Sauvignon. (The group has also done comparisons of '99 and '00 CdP and Aussie GSMs that I've attended.)

I'm not surprised that the Beaucastel was my #1, and I'm surprised it wasn't higher for the group. I thought our other two CdPs were pretty weak, and definitely on the decline. Not exactly a fair match up, IMO, as our Aussie contenders are stronger wines than the CdPs on hand for this particular tasting. I've had many '98 CdPs that are outstanding.

• 1998 Australian Domaine Wines The Hattrick 93 Points

  Australia, South Australia

  Group's #1 (my #2) – 25 pts; 3 1st place votes, 2 2nd place votes, 2 thirds, 2 last places – dark red violet color; deep berry, blackberry, plum, anise, menthol nose; tasty, rich berry, blackberry, spice, currant, creme de cassis palate, with balance; medium-plus finish (Grenache/Cabernet blend)

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• 1998 d'Arenberg The Ironstone Pressings 92 Points

  Australia, South Australia, Fleurieu, McLaren Vale

  Group's #2 (my #4) – 26 pts; 2, 2, 2, 1 - dark red violet color; VA, baked and dried berry, raspberry, blueberry nose; mature, framboise, cherry, floral palate with good acidity; long finish

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• 1998 Château de Beaucastel Châteauneuf-du-Pape 94 Points

  France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape

  Group's #3 (my #1) – 27 pts; 1, 3, 1, 0 - dark red violet color with pale meniscus; focused berry, fig, currant nose; mature, fig, mineral, dried berry, black raspberry, molasses and graphite palate; long finish

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• 1998 Clarendon Hills Grenache Old Vines Clarendon 92 Points

  Australia, South Australia, Fleurieu, Clarendon

  Group's #4 (my #3) – 31 pts; 2, 1, 2, 2 - bricking dark red violet color with pale meniscus; currant, berry, herbal, oregano nose; maturing berry, spicy baked berry, oregano and smoke palate; medium-plus finish 92+ pts.

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• 1998 Domaine des Sénéchaux Châteauneuf-du-Pape 88 Points

  France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape

  Group's #5 (my #6) – 33 pts; 1, 1, 2, 2 - bricking dark red violet color with pale meniscus; major musty nose blew off after 30 minutes or so to reveal a fig, dried berry nose with heavy brett; mature, tart berry, baked berry palate; medium finish

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• 1998 Domaine St. Benoit Châteauneuf-du-Pape Grande Garde 89 Points

  France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape

  Group's #6 (my #5) – 47 pts; 0, 0, 0, 2 - bricking medium red violet color with pale meniscus; earthy, red fruit, baked berry, spicy berry, milk chocolate nose; tight, tart berry, spice palate; medium-plus finish

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