An evening of Mugneret-Gibourg

A wine dinner organised by Sebastian Thomas of Howard Ripley wines at which Marie-André Mugneret presented a range of the wines that she and her sister, Marie-Christine produce from their domaine in Vosne-Romanée. We had the good fortune to be sat next to Marie-André at the dinner, but she and my beloved spent the evening talking about children and art galleries and wine didn't get much of a look in. The wines were a bit on the young side, pretty, with gorgeously elegant textures, but not fully expressive. The Echezeaux were the most charming, seemingly oakier than the Clos Vougeots, although they undergo an identical oak regime.

• NV Jacquesson & Fils Champagne 88 Points

  France, Champagne

  Very fine, classic and balanced

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• 2003 Domaine Georges Mugneret-Gibourg Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru Les Chaignots 87 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru

  Very dark, ripe and juicy, tannic - in time it grew quite exotic with Asian spices, but ultimately not burgundian enough for me

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• 2002 Domaine Georges Mugneret-Gibourg Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru Les Chaignots 88 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru

  Franker and fruitier than the 2003, ripe sweet pinot fruit, open but still restrained

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• 2001 Domaine Georges Mugneret-Gibourg Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru Les Chaignots 88 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru

  Leaner and more focused than the 2002, dry cherry pinot style, a bit metallic, but fine

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• 2000 Domaine Georges Mugneret-Gibourg Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru Les Chaignots 87 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru

  Quite hard to taste after the three younger vintages, this was still dark and young, no sign of any secondary development, just restrained pinot fruit

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• 2002 Domaine Georges Mugneret-Gibourg Clos Vougeot 90 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos Vougeot Grand Cru

  Spricy rich pinot fruit, velvetty texture, quite opulent, not complex, but lovely

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• 2001 Domaine Georges Mugneret-Gibourg Clos Vougeot 90 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos Vougeot Grand Cru

  Superbly focused, very precise, bright fruit, elegant

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• 2000 Domaine Georges Mugneret-Gibourg Clos Vougeot 88 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos Vougeot Grand Cru

  Very cherry, silky texture, no grip, a wee bit of cardboard on the finish

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• 1998 Domaine Georges Mugneret-Gibourg Echezeaux 90 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Echezeaux Grand Cru

  Savoury, smoky bacon, but fruity too, young but approachable

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• 2001 Domaine Georges Mugneret-Gibourg Echezeaux 90 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Echezeaux Grand Cru

  Clear kinship with the 1998, this too showed a lot of spicy smoky oak, rich fruit, but balanced and restrained

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• 2003 Domaine Georges Mugneret-Gibourg Echezeaux 89 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Echezeaux Grand Cru

  Opaque, oaky, huge depth of fruit, bitter chocolate - wholly approachable now but who knows how this will develop

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• 1983 Domaine Georges Mugneret-Gibourg Echezeaux 87 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Echezeaux Grand Cru

  Fresh, herby, cold tea, grapy - fully alive, but a bit austere

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• 2000 Fritz Haag Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese Goldkapsel #9 93 Points

  Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer

  Mouthwatering, intense riesling, not particularly sweet, but utterly capitivating

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