Six Vintages of Vieux Telegraphe

It could have been eight, but I was too cheap to shell out for the '03 and '99, which interested me less. Very nice to taste the four most recent vintages together and add to my vertical experience with this wine. My only regret was that the '01 was not offered.

• 2007 Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe Châteauneuf-du-Pape La Crau

  France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape

  Medium ruby. Lots of herbs and spice upfront, then black cherry fruit comes up. Middle weight, quite spicy, good acidity and some tannin. This is very pretty and pure, particularly after cycling through all the wines and coming back to it after the wildly funky '95. Not overwhelming like other '07s, and I mean this in the most complimentary way.

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• 2006 Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe Châteauneuf-du-Pape La Crau

  France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape

  Slightly lighter tinged than the '07. Ripe, candied, and showing some alcohol at first, but the nose quickly broadens to display attractive red fruit and more perfumed tones. Rounder entry but darker fruit and more obvious tannin than the younger wine. Interesting in that it does not seem hot at all on the palate despite the first aromatic impression. Very nice although a bit less intense than the '07.

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• 2005 Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe Châteauneuf-du-Pape La Crau

  France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape

  Same color as the '06. Mint and menthol on the nose here with a touch of complicating sweatiness that dissipates. Less showy than the prior 2 wines with predominant tobacco at first, but this deepens and sweetens in the glass. Dense to the point of feeling almost solid, darker profile fruit, and very firm but smooth tannins. Although approachable now, it is pretty tightly wound and less complex than any other wine in the tasting. Serious and excellent potential, but this will evolve very slowly. For 2020 and beyond.

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• 2004 Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe Châteauneuf-du-Pape La Crau

  France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape

  After a subtly corked bottle we started over. Medium to lighter red with paler edge. Piquant nose of raspberry and some creosote. Lighter weight, lively due to its snappy acidity. The feel and quality of fruit reminded me of Chambolle Musigny. Probably my third favorite wine. It has developed beautifully in the 2 1/2 years since the one time I previously tasted it and found it to be grapey and simple.

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• 2000 Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe Châteauneuf-du-Pape La Crau

  France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape

  Healthy color, not much lighter than the youngest trio of wines. Immediately some secondary fragrance accompanying ripe whole red berries. Garrigue comes later. Middle weight, savory and not overly sweet, elegant feel for a wine from this vintage. Showing beautifully now, and in fact, my favorite wine of the flight, edging out the '07 (although it is likely that wine will overtake it with time). I've tried one of these a year, and it is still on an upward trajectory.

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• 1995 Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe Châteauneuf-du-Pape La Crau

  France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape

  Light and mature appearing with some browning at the rim. Titillating, exciting multifaceted nose at first with caramel, incense, strawberry, and high toned funk. Over time, though, the brett got the better of this bottle. Much better initial aromatics than the palate impression, which more rosemary and thyme than muted fruit. Again, like the 2000 and 2004, nice feel, but this attenuates as it opens, leaving a clipped, astringent finish. Too bad since clean bottles of this can be spectacular. When I last noted this almost a year ago, there was a bit of brett intrusion; I hope that not all remaining bottles are marked by this element.

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If you are scoring at home (as you notice, I am not), my order of preference was '00, '07, '04, '05, '06, and in last place by a wide margin, '95. The '05 could well rise with aging, but it's going to take a long time to find out.