Clos de tarts and Vintage Madeira Tasting at John V.'s

Last night I was invited to a tasting at John V.’s home. The tasting was instigated so a group of us could try a dessert wine (more on that later), but it was built around a Clos de Tart vertical. The wines were enjoyed over a few hours with breads and cheeses. Most of the tasters had been drinking together for years, so the evening was filled with a combination of reminiscing over wines from the 30’s thru 70’s and discussions of today’s medical issues. But, don’t be misled; there were some very keen palate’s and insights to be found. Thanks to John for putting this together.

John started us off with two blind wines.

• 2002 Bonneau du Martray Corton-Charlemagne 89 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru

  My second or third time trying this wine. It looked young with a green gold color. The nose was vacant. With a lot of air, Jeff K found some pineapple upside down cake, which I guess I agreed, but it was slight. The palate, was a bit more, showing tart lemons. A very long finish of tart lemons. Overall though, This should be better, which is what I said about this wine on release. When it was unveiled, I was not suprised as this was the 3rd time I have found this wine like this. Will it ever get to where it "should" be? I have serious doubts, but perhaps. A fine enough wine, but it just didn't perform as to what I thought.

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• 2005 Domaine des Lambrays Clos des Lambrays 92 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos des Lambrays Grand Cru

  This was also served blind. A very pretty wine that more open than most 05's but still in need of much time. Light ruby in color. The nose is quite pretty with violets, meaty funk and cherries. Soft and already complex on the palate with plenty of cherries. Slight anise on the finish and a bit of powdered cherry drink mix. Lovely wine. I can't help thinking that this wine, even with its recent lower pricing, is no longer a value though. It is a good wine and worth owning a couple, but as the price has entered plus $100 it is no longer the last grand Cru value.

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The Clos de Tart Vertical. This really was interesting as most wines were poster child's for the vintage generalizations. A good glimpse at these vintages.

• 1993 Mommessin Clos de Tart 89 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos de Tart Grand Cru

  Pale ruby coloring showing some age with a bit of browning. The nose has a nice funk with cherries and pwdered cherry drink mix. On the palate, it is a bit hollow and the finish is clipped. Slightly bitter as well. Meh. I have had this a few times and i don't see it getting much better. At one time, I had higher hopes for this vintage.

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• 1995 Mommessin Clos de Tart 86 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos de Tart Grand Cru

  Ruby but slightly flat in color. The nose shows dried fruits and cherry drink mix. With air, a burnt caramel note emerged. Thin and acidic on the palate. Plenty of tannins. Nothing here to say this gets much better IMO. I am not a fan of the vintage. Too many tannins, not enough interest.

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• 1996 Domaine du Clos de Tart Clos de Tart 91 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos de Tart Grand Cru

  Ruby in color. A nice but slight funk to the nose. Also a slight herbal note to go with macerated and fresher cherries. Fuller bodied. Holding on to its youth. Strong acidity which proved to be divisive. No hurry on this but no harm either.

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• 1999 Domaine du Clos de Tart Clos de Tart 90 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos de Tart Grand Cru

  This would have been the hardest to guess the vintage on. Purple/ruby in color. The nose has cherries and a slight herbal note. Also mercaptans especially with air. Tart cherries on the palate, a bit hollow on the back end. A long finish with hints of anise.

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• 2002 Domaine du Clos de Tart Clos de Tart 93 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos de Tart Grand Cru

  My WOTN, but the groups #3. purple/ruby in color. The nose is enticing with earthy cherries. great texture. Black and red cherries on the palate. Firm tannins. Nice finish with an interesting smoky ash note. I liked this wine, but it needs time.

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• 2003 Domaine du Clos de Tart Clos de Tart 91 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos de Tart Grand Cru

  I had to laugh at this being the groups WOTN. For a group that professes to eschew Cal (and Oregon for that matter) Pinots, to pick this wine, is ... interesting. Not that it tastes like a Cal Pinot. But this was the ripest, most forward, least acidic, wine on the table. the nose was cherries and a craisins. Rich and full bodied on the palate. Lots of raspberries and cherries. It tasted of sunshine. Slight tannins. I would not bother ageing this one, though it will certainly last. I would drink now to 2018.

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• 2004 Domaine du Clos de Tart Clos de Tart 78 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos de Tart Grand Cru

  Jeff joking said that the 04 would be easy to detect blind or not. I laughed watching people sniff this around the table followed by an uncontrollable impulse uttering of "blechh". Pretty color, but the nose on this is so green and herbal. It just keeps getting worse. It is better on the palate, with some cherries and dill, but not worth drinking IMO. Drying tannins finish the picture. What a wreck.

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• 2005 Domaine du Clos de Tart Clos de Tart 92 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos de Tart Grand Cru

  An impressive wine and not totally shut down as many 05's are. Pretty purple ruby in color. The nose is tight with cherries and powdered cherries. Sweet and balanced. Lots of cherries. Very deep, with most of the flavors lurking just a bit to deep to quite pick out. Like looking into the ocean from a pier, you just can't quite make out what is swimming at the bottom. But it is obvious there is something there. In the end, this will be the best wine (93-95), but for tonight, it still provides plenty of pleasure.

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A Vintage Madeira flight:

• 1886 Barbeito Madeira Malvasia Reserva Velha 98 Points

  Portugal, Madeira

  This was the wine that was the impetus. John opened this on Sunday, and was so blown away, he (after having another glass) put the cork back in a put together the tasting. So, the issue was, had this wine deteriorated in 5 days. Only John knows for sure, and he thought yes, but this was spectacular. My pour was full of sediment and it was so good I drank it to the bottom anyway. Darker brown with orange and green notes in color. The nose had lots of oranges and hints of coffee. Smooth and complex. I am of the belief that Madeira's like this (bottled in 2002), will not deteriorate in such a time. Rather they smooth out a bit albeit they may lose some punch. This got better in my glass and then it was gone. A special wine.

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• 1929 Barbeito Madeira Verdelho Reserva Velha 95 Points

  Portugal, Madeira

  John popped and poured this for comparison. A bit lighter in color, more like iced tea. The nose had more alcohol, less orange, a bit of chocolate and less coffee. It took some swirling to get the alcohol to smooth out a bit, but then this was glorious as well. John was a bit disappointed with this, and I think and hour or two in a decanter would help this come together. After my 1886 was gone, I worked on this. Still youthful, but this was really nice.

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• 1937 D'Oliveiras Madeira Sercial Reserva 93 Points

  Portugal, Madeira

  I am not sure when this was opened. John went back and added this but I don't know if he popped it then or not. A bit lighter in color with much more alcohol on the nose. Less oranges, more chocolate and less coffee. Lots of candied chocolate covered oranges. This was good, but lacked the smoothness the others had. Needs more air time IMO, but I would be interested in others thoughts. Easy to be picky when you have an embarrassment of riches in front of you, I guess.

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