Fish and Chips and Champagne

A hugely enjoyable evening at a fish and chip shop on the Waterloo Road. The company was so engaging that it was difficult to give the wines the attention they deserved, but I really enjoyed them all. The Bereche may not have been the best wine on show, but it's the one I'm most keen to try again.

• NV Veuve Fourny & Fils Champagne Premier Cru Extra Brut Cuvée "R"

  France, Champagne, Champagne Premier Cru

  Fresh, bright, lemony, a scintillating start to the evening

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• 1998 Pierre Gimonnet & Fils Champagne Premier Cru Extra Brut Oenophile

  France, Champagne, Champagne Premier Cru

  Warmer (in temperature) than the Fourny, which probably made it taste rounder than it actually was; rich, salty and fine in an unobtrusive sort of way

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• NV Jacques Selosse V.O. Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut

  France, Champagne, Champagne Grand Cru

  This struck me as much more conventional than other Selosses I've had. Ripe, rich and oaky, yes, but still fresh and not at all heavy. Excellent, I thought

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• 1998 Billecart-Salmon Champagne Cuvée Nicolas François Billecart

  France, Champagne

  Tight and appley - elegant, and there seems to be the power there, but not expressive tonight

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• 1998 Pol Roger Champagne Cuvée Sir Winston Churchill

  France, Champagne

  This too was really tightly wound and brooding; didn't have the edge that the straight vintage has.

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• 1990 Laurent-Perrier Champagne Grand Siècle 1990 Lumière du Millénaire

  France, Champagne

  Smooth, elegant, warm and oaky - unlike Russell, I thought this harmonious and rather lovely

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• NV Marguet Champagne Grand Cru Cuvée Privilege assemblage 99/00

  France, Champagne, Champagne Grand Cru

  (Disgorged July 05) Thick textured, but very fresh, toasty and rich - superb

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• NV Bérêche et Fils Champagne Reflet d'Antan

  France, Champagne

  Striking funky nose, huge, medicinal and animal, penetrating flavour - quite unlike any champagne I've ever had, but my initial reaction is that it's brilliant.

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• 2002 Vilmart & Cie Champagne Premier Cru Grand Cellier Rubis

  France, Champagne, Champagne Premier Cru

  Raspberries and strawberries, a real blast of summer, very lovely

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• 1999 Bollinger Champagne La Grande Année Rosé

  France, Champagne

  An interesting counterpoint to the Vilmart, this too showed red fruits, but was stricter, very fine and serious

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