Pierre Morey/Lafite Lunch

Tasted Monday, December 14, 2009 by abh with 637 views

Introduction

Whites with sashimi spoons, mackerel assiette, sea bass with a crab sabayon, then reds with a foie gras, duck and veal torte.

Flight 1 (2 Notes)

  • 1999 Pierre Morey Bâtard-Montrachet

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru

    Perfect condition, not the slightest hint of over-maturity, indeed showing quite young. Flint and gunsmoke nose, palate steely and intense, stunning laser like focus, but slightly led by the oak - a completely different treatment to the Meursault of his drunk alongside. Wish I had more, which I would leave for a good while...

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  • 2000 Morey-Blanc Meursault 1er Cru Les Genevrières

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru

    Perhaps showing more mature and open than the previous bottle. A bit of a blue cheese note on the nose, rounder and richer than before - an interesting contrast with his much tighter and leaner Batard alongside, and probably rather giving the lie to my comment that this was more Puligny than Meursault...

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Flight 2 (4 Notes)

  • 1970 Château Lafite Rothschild

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac

    Lovely resolved but not in anyway over-mature color. Slightly floral, rose-hip nose, but also masses of leather and cedar. Still some dark fruit in the mouth but mostly about the perfectly balanced structure. Pleasing crisp acidity, but still a little tannin too. Grew more and more complex and expressive in the glass, and really has lots of life left. The epitome of traditional, reserved but expressive, claret. Easily the winner between it and the 72!!&97.

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  • 1997 Château Lafite Rothschild

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac

    In a vertical with the 70 and 72, just showed incredibly young and primary. Still a thoroughly classy wine with plenty of potential, but needs a good 5 years if not more. There is a good kernel of dark fruit, and some cedar and spice on the nose already, but it is all quite tightly wound up. With a few years, will be very good, but perhaps not ever the match of the more classic 70 for me.

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  • 1972 Château Lafite Rothschild

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac

    A remarkable surprise from what should be the most knackered wine imaginable given the dreadful vintage. A little dusty coming out of the bottle, but the funk more or less cleared up. Very vegetal however, and slightly stewed - like old vegetable broth. Not unpleasant, though. The palate has lost most of its structure, but there is still a classic elegance there. The rot that apparently blighted the year isn't apparent at all - a tribute to the amount of effort that must have gone into triage. I admit that I'm more partial to old and funky wines than most, but this really isn't dead at all in my view. Quite an interesting experience, although the 70 drunk alongside is obviously a far greater wine.

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  • 1997 Château Doisy-Daëne

    France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Barsac

    Lovely notes of apricot, honey and a little green tea. Good acidity and not too sweet at all. Not a grand or opulent Sauternes, but a beautifully refined and almost delicate one.

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