Wine Exchange Rhône Tasting

Dan put together this tasting of Rhône reds, followed by a 1910 Madeira provided by Dave.

An interesting contrast between grenache and mourvedre. The Hommage was spectacular, though the perfume of the Barbe Rac was intoxicating in its own right. WOTN votes: Barbe Rac -- 5; Hommage -- 0 (which was surprising to me, but maybe because the Hommage seemed to fade).

• 1989 M. Chapoutier Châteauneuf-du-Pape Barbe Rac

  France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape

  Threw substantial sediment. Nicely perfumed, light spice, a sense of elegance on the nose. Initially some drying tannins, though still displaying intense fruit and herbs, with a light menthol character on the finish. Quite an elegant wine behind the tannins. After some time in the glass the perfumed character really picks up steam, and the tannic quality seems to fade. Slightly on the downward side of its aging curve, but really a lovely older CnP.

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• 1989 Château de Beaucastel Châteauneuf-du-Pape Hommage à Jacques Perrin

  France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape

  Beautiful crystalline appearance, medium ruby, very little browning at the edges. Nose is intensely complex, leather, herbs, lavender. Terrific structure, and though the palate has a bit of heat, it's beautifully round, rich and long, with intense red fruit. A phenomenal wine, truly great, though surprisingly it seemed to fade fairly quickly (maybe it just closed up?).

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Two Chave wines, and it was interesting to see what ten years does. WOTN votes: 2005 -- 0; 1995 -- 8. The 1995 was sublime!

• 2005 Domaine Jean-Louis Chave Hermitage

  France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Hermitage

  Deep ruby color. Very deep and intense black fruit on the nose, with some fennel. The palate is huge, with black pepper, dark fruit, and beautiful structure. The firm tannins are present, but this still drinks quite nicely considering its youth. Tremendous wine. This is just a baby, and I imagine will be drinking well for decades.

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• 1995 Domaine Jean-Louis Chave Hermitage

  France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Hermitage

  Medium ruby color. A phenomenal wine, showing an ethereal nose of bacon fat, flowers and rocks -- unbelievably great nose. The palate is structured and rich, and yet has a sense of delicacy -- it goes on and on. This is simply first-class syrah, and deserves its reputation. My WOTN.

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Like night and day. The Cuilleron was elegant and feminine, the Guigal was a beast. WOTN votes: Cuilleron -- 0; Guigal -- 8.

• 1999 Domaine Yves Cuilleron Côte-Rôtie Coteaux de Bassenon

  France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côte-Rôtie

  Medium garnet color. Highly perfumed nose of red fruit and incense (sandalwood). Palate shows high-toned red fruit, with nice structure and balance, followed by a pretty finish. It is, however, showing it's age somewhat. Very good, not great.

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• 2000 E. Guigal Côte-Rôtie La Landonne

  France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côte-Rôtie

  Deep garnet color. Nose is very young, and really shows the oak (but it sure is nice oak) -- hard to get beyond that at this stage, though there is substantial fruit packed in behind the oak. Palate is tannic and rich, with an iron core; great structure. Very young wine in every sense. While clearly lavishly oaked, I believe it will be absorbed by the substantial fruit. This needs many, many years of cellaring.

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Terrific!

• 1910 Barbeito Madeira Boal

  Portugal, Madeira

  In a word: wow! Fantastic nose of crème brûlée and dates/figs; ethereal and otherworldly, delicate yet intense. A beautiful, intense, complex wine with bracing acidity (not surprisingly). Very long. The volatility seems to be on the medium-low side. What a treat.

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This tasting was fantastic! The wines were very special, and Dan went to great lengths to provide not only the wines, but also excellent literature and commentary.