Contino Dinner with Jesús Madrazo

Jesús Madrazo's Great Grandfather founded CVNE one of Rioja's most famous wineries. His father had responsibility for buying in grapes for CVNE's wines. He noticed that a particular growers grapes were of a high standard. The farm was bought and in 1973 Contino was founded. Jesús took over winemaking duties in 1999. The winery produces mainly modern styled wines - Reserva, Graciano and Vina del Olivo. However in an attempt to maintain the traditional long lived style of Rioja Jesús also produces a Gran Reserva in good years and bottles in only in magnums. He treated us to his portfolio including some rare bottles.

• 2005 Bodegas y Viñedos del Contino Rioja Contino Reserva

  Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alavesa, Rioja

  Tempranillo 85% Graciano 10% Mazuelo @% Garnacha 2%
  French and American oak.
  Deep red core with a pink robe. Rasberry on the nose. Quite floral. In the mouth it is fresh and lively. Predominantly red fruits. Very easy to drink right now, quite light and fruity. I’d expect this to put on some weight but delicious right now.

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• 1974 Bodegas y Viñedos del Contino Rioja Contino Reserva

  Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alavesa, Rioja

  Wow. First thought is how similar this is to those lovely 1970’s Viña Reals.
  Rose petals. Hint of camphor. A Burgundian elegance to it. Completely evolved. Harmonious. Light, long delicate.
  This was a little taste of history as it was the first vintage of Contino. If one could only drink this everyday!
  This was a real treat.

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• 1996 Bodegas y Viñedos del Contino Rioja Contino Gran Reserva

  Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alavesa, Rioja

  On the nose this is not unlike the ‘74 Reserva but not as delicate (yet?). Secondary development, a hint of caramel but mainly a nice leathery aroma with the fruit still present in the background. Nicely evolved. Incredibly smooth on the palate. Very much in balance and a gorgeous drink. I thought this was excellent.
  Jesús Madrazo bottles these Gran Reservas only in very good years and only in magnums. The intention is to allow them maximum ability to age and make them in in the style of the old Riojas he drank growing up.

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• 2004 Bodegas y Viñedos del Contino Rioja Contino Gran Reserva

  Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alavesa, Rioja

  Tempranillo 70% 15% Graciano 10% Garnacha 5% Mazuelo
  Purple colour. Quite full on. Good deal of oak on the nose along with classic tempranillo fruit. Nice mouthfeel but a touch hot. A good ripe vintage but a little off balance for me right now, needs to settle down I guess. Considering the track record of this wine I’m more than happy to give this the benefit of the doubt. Interesting to try it in a decade.

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• 2005 Bodegas y Viñedos del Contino Rioja Viña del Olivo

  Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alavesa, Rioja

  Tempranillo 90% Graciano10%
  This wine is fermented in large French oak vats. Malolactic fermentation takes place in new French oak barrels and the wine is subsequently aged in French, American and Hungarian oak casks. So yes it sees a fair bit of wood! While the Gran reservas may be made to recall the Rioja of old this is undoubtedly modern. Ripe upfront fruit from a single vineyard around a 1000 year old oak tree that gives the wine its name (and a seperate plot of Graciano) and toasty oak flavours dominate. This is full rich and sexy.
  In the mouth it has a velvet texture and while there is a touch of heat it is balanced because there is lovely ripe fruit. Traditionalists will not like it but for me this is good modern Spanish wine that has the stuffing to age and it will be very interesting to see what this is like in another decade or more.
  All the 05’s were excellent it seems to be a very successful year for Contino.

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• 2001 Bodegas y Viñedos del Contino Rioja Viña del Olivo

  Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alavesa, Rioja

  Tempranillo 90% Graciano 10%
  Similar to the 05 and also young. Deep cherry red colour. On the first whiff I was reminded of a Mauro Vendimia Seleccionada. Notes of liquorice
  and mint on the nose. In the mouth this is full and rich, a big wine. Modern style but for my palate not overdone but I know others who might find this too much. This is very good now but is built to last.

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• 1995 Bodegas y Viñedos del Contino Rioja Contino Variedad Graciano

  Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alavesa, Rioja

  Deep red lighter at the rim. Hint of smoke on the nose. Fresh and vibrant on the palate. Mainly red fruits. Can’t believe it’s this old. Very fresh for it’s age. Good acidity seems to have years of ageing ahead of it.
  I have little experience of Graciano and very few bodegas bottle it as a single variety. This was a very interesting wine and one I’d like to try again on its own not after so many Tempranillo wines.

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• 2006 Bodegas y Viñedos del Contino Rioja Contino Variedad Graciano

  Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alavesa, Rioja

  Deep red colour. Smoke on the nose reminds me of northern Rhone syrah a little. Vibrant and lively on the palate. Very young, found this hard to evaluate after the tempranillos. Seems like these are built to age. Perhaps with time they gain some complexity and loose that exhuberance.

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When wine is well made labels like 'traditional' and 'modern' don't really matter to me. I happen to like both styles. I'm sure for some the Contino is too modern. But to his credit Jesús Madrazo
is trying to ensure the survival of both styles. I wish he would bottle more Gran Reservas in 75cl as I'm sure there would be a market for it. I wish more bodegas would follow his lead.
He is a sincere and friendly guy and it was a pleasure to taste through his range of wines with him.