"That 70s Show" Rioja Tasting with Helio San Miguel
Instituto Cervantes, NY
Tasted Thursday, January 21, 2010 by dougsmith with 1,262 views
Introduction
It was a blind tasting of 1970s Rioja wines last night with two ringers, a Cabernet from the Penedès and a Barolo, the latter of which unfortunately turned out to be slightly spoiled.
Helio San Miguel had run the same tasting on the previous Friday and said (along with Justin Berlin who was among the twelve tasters and had been at the prior event as well) that the wines overall showed better this day, and that, surprisingly the group's #1 wine, the 78 Campo Viejo, was in last place the week earlier. That illustrates the importance of bottle variation. The top wine was very well liked by the whole panel, so this was not an issue of small differences.
I have included the group's rankings as "GR" and mine afterwards.
Flight 1 (9 Notes)
Flight 2 (1 Note)
The 73 Tondonia was included not as a formal part of the tasting but simply as another wine to try alongside. There was general agreement that it wasn't quite up to the level of many of the other wines. It may require more time, however it is already 35 years old.
Closing
Thanks again to Helio San Miguel and the Instituto Cervantes in NY for this treat.
1978 Bodegas Palacio Rioja Glorioso Gran Reserva 88 Points
Spain, La Rioja, Rioja
Medium garnet color, reticent on the nose with elements of tobacco, spice and dry cherry. Medium bodied with soft tannins on the palate, decent balance. Helio considered this one "dried out". GR#8, My #8
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1974 Bodegas y Viñedos del Contino Rioja Contino Reserva 91 Points
Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alavesa, Rioja
Medium garnet color, slightly brownish with an orangy rim. Pretty nose of tart red berries and spice. Medium bodied on the palate with soft tannins, elegant wine with a long finish. This is very nice wine, but better on the palate than the nose for me. GR #3, My #5.
NB: this is apparently the first vintage for Contino.
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1976 C.V.N.E. (Compañía Vinícola del Norte de España) Rioja Imperial Gran Reserva 90 Points
Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alta, Rioja
Medium ruby/garnet color. Pretty nose with elements of coffee and a touch herbal. Medium bodied on the palate, grippy tannins and good acidity. GR #5, My #7.
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1976 Torres Cabernet Sauvignon Gran Coronas Reserva Mas La Plana 92 Points
Spain, Catalunya, Penedès
Medium to deep brownish color, orangy rim, somewhat cloudy. On the nose, somewhat musty with foresty, herbal notes, a touch of menthol. Medium bodied on the palate, earthy and grippy, almost explosive in the mouth. Very intriguing wine. GR #7, My #2.
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1973 Bodegas Beronia Rioja Gran Reserva Cosecha Fundacional 91 Points
Spain, La Rioja, Rioja
Medium ruby/garnet color, orange rim. Nose of sweet caramel, red currants and tar. Medium bodied with a good acid spine and silky tannins. Helio felt that this one had the most fruit left of the wines in the tasting; I'd say it's one of a couple. GR #6, My #4.
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1970 Ceretto Barolo Grignore Flawed
Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
Orangy garnet color, very cloudy. Odd medicinal aroma, musty and herbal. Medium to full bodied on the palate, strong acid spine and grippy tannins, long finish but again, sort of akin to musty old socks. There was definitely something odd with this wine, though it was drinkable. (Helio said that a similar bottle the week before had been pristine; bought from Chambers Street; bottle variation). GR #9, My #9.
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1973 Viña Valoria Rioja 91 Points
Spain, La Rioja, Rioja
Medium garnet, brownish. Pretty nose but reticent, with elements of sweet tobacco and complex spices. Medium bodied on the palate with good acidity but only a medium finish. Still a very nice wine. GR #4, My #6.
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1978 Bodegas Riojanas Rioja Monte Real Gran Reserva 93 Points
Spain, La Rioja, Rioja
Medium ruby color. On the nose, very interesting aromas of oatmeal and milk. On the palate it's a surprise because it tastes very little like its aroma; earthy with lots of complex savory flavors, hard to describe but very smooth and well balanced with a long finish. GR #2, My #1.
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1978 Campo Viejo Rioja Reserva 92 Points
Spain, La Rioja, Rioja
Medium garnet color, cloudy. Nose of mulling spices and leather with a touch of tomato juice that mostly blew off after an hour or so. Medium bodied and very pretty on the palate. Not overbearing but very drinkable. GR #1, My #3
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