Colicchio & Sons Soft Open w/Friends

Kara wanted one final treat from chef Tom in NYC before moving to Boston, and it happened to be opening weekend at his new concept in the former Craftsteak NYC location.

Aesthetically not a whole lot has changed, but you will notice that the oyster bar out front has been removed in favor of a huge wood oven, and the "steakhouse" decor has been dialed back some. Nonetheless the biggest changes are to the menu and Tom did a fantastic job writing a menu that allows him to get back in the kitchen and roll out some dishes that are seasonally appropriate showcasing ingredients and technique. As the kinks are worked out look for this place to get better and better.

Highlight dishes include the Gnocchi, Sweet Breads and Fois Gras appetizers as well as Roast Monkfish and Venison in the entree department. The wine list definitely asks the oenophile to stretch a bit and explore new territory. Known names are extremely expensive, but there are many lesser known gems on this list. Sparkling, Alsace, Rhone Reds, CA Pinot and "Eclectic & Indigenous Reds" all offer some good values from "under the radar" makers.

Notes include selections from the wine list that were consumed over the course of the night.

The Molnar Family Pinot was very nice with both the Squid and the Sweet Breads

• 2007 Molnar Family Pinot Noir Poseidon's Vineyard 93 Points

  USA, California, Napa / Sonoma, Carneros

  One of the purest expressions of Carneros I have had in some time. Not over extracted one bit. On the "burgundian" side of CA pinot.
  
  Nose: Complex lovely nose with Ripe Strawberry, Sour Cherry, Cranberry, Smoke, Embers, Hazelnut, Rose/Floral notes and some roasted herbs. Palate: Middleweight, but super silky and really showing dark cherry flavors of Carneros with hints of smoke and earthy terroir. Finish: Shorter than desired but does not overwhelm with powerful friut, but gracefully tapers off to show cherry/citrus in the finish.

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This was a near perfect pairing with the Roasted Monkfish wrapped Prosciutto and also complimented the Venison quite well.

• 2007 Alain Graillot Crozes-Hermitage 89 Points

  France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Crozes-Hermitage

  Nose: Funky, Earthy and showing Currant/Blackberry below the surface. Fruit became more prominent as the wine opened eventually showing violets, cassis, licorice and some toasted brioche. Palate: Middleweight syrah that had nice acid balance. Fruit really shines in the midpalate for a moment before the darker flavors are balanced with Cranberry and Floral flavors. Finish: Cuts a bit short, but has nice complexity with anise, currants and clove showing the way.

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Went with a cheese course, and ended the night with these two treats for desert. A nice cap to the night indeed.

• 2004 Cascina Adelaide Barolo 91 Points

  Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

  Nose: Dried berries, Cranberry, Herbs, Cocoa, Cardamon and some Fenel. Palate: Very Meduim Bodied and tart on the attack, almost showing some red grapefruit with Cranberry, Sour Cherry and some herbal notes carrying through. Finish: Long finish that shows the complexity of this wine. A very nice bottle.

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• 2005 Robert Foley Merlot 92 Points

  USA, California, Napa Valley

  Fantastic as usual. This was a desert treat at the end of the night.
  
  Nose: Black Cherries, Ripe Berries and Chocolate and nicely balanced oak component. Palate: Tremendous weight that only developed more as it opened. Black Cherry, Chocolate (fudge), Ripe Strawberry and caramelzied pecans. Super dense and silky smooth coating the palate. Finish: Berries and Chocolate that lingered for a long while.

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