TN: Amarones, Soves and Ports

Last night I got together with a group to taste Amarones. It proved to be interesting and quite enjoyable. Amarones are a wine that I drink a few of each year. Not a lot as I often don't find them worth the price tag. It was nice to taste across a broad range of producers and vintages. The real interesting wine was the Bussola. Was it flawed with VA? I guess so, but it was also really good. A very challenging wine.

Our host Scott started us off with some very good whites. I love good Soave.

• 2008 Gini Soave Classico 89 Points

  Italy, Veneto, Soave Classico

  Yellow gold in color. The nose is full with honey, white flowers and pears. Full texture with a nice acidity. Round (apparently fermented on its lees) enough to giver it the impression of seeing oak. Long finish with some limes. Really a nice wine that continued to improve all night long.

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• 2007 Inama Soave Classico Vin Soave 87 Points

  Italy, Veneto, Soave Classico

  Perhaps starting to show a bit of age. The nose is full with seltzer, minerals and apples. A bit harsh on the palate and slightly bitter on the finish. It is full with an oily texture. I like it and if not for the Gini, it might have showed a bit better. I would drink up and then buy the 08.

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The Amarones:

• 2000 Allegrini Amarone della Valpolicella Classico 91 Points

  Italy, Veneto, Valpolicella, Amarone della Valpolicella Classico

  Inky purple in color and not really showing much age. The nose is tight but with air shows dust and dark cherries. Juicy texture. Black raspberries on the palate. This is smooth and modern.

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• 2001 Tommaso Bussola Amarone della Valpolicella Classico Tb 92 Points

  Italy, Veneto, Valpolicella, Amarone della Valpolicella Classico

  This stood out. It could have been my favorite or least favorite. It had "faults" but so much good stuff too. Purple in color, opaque and bright. The nose had a huge amount of VA. For some, this was impossible to get past. But, if you could, there was a lovely chocolate covered raisin quality to it. On the palate, black cherries and Raisinets. It was sweet and seemed Port-like until I drank it with some Ports later in the evening. Then it seemed almost dry. Clearly some RS left. A long finish of dusty cocoa with heat to it. In the end, I loved the wine, but it was not what I was expecting. At $100 Ohio, I don't know that I want more, but if I did, it would be nice after dinner, before dessert with a cheese course. Really interesting stuff.

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• 2004 Vaona Amarone della Valpolicella Classico 88 Points

  Italy, Veneto, Valpolicella, Amarone della Valpolicella Classico

  Purple in color with ruby swirls. The nose has lots of spice and some barnyard. The barnyard blew off with air. I found this monolithic and tannic. Plenty of black cherry fruit, so perhaps this improves with age.Some heat and slightly bitter on the finish. A few liked this more than I. I wonder how it evolves from here.

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• 1997 Boscaini Amarone della Valpolicella Classico Ca' de Loi 90 Points

  Italy, Veneto, Valpolicella, Amarone della Valpolicella Classico

  Purple in color, some ruby and a bit more transparent than the others. A nice nose of dusty cocoa and dark cherries. Slight VA notes but not troublesome on a very complex nose. On the palate, this is in a good spot. Layered with vibrant fruit. Velvety texture. Long finish with some odd cola notes. Also some dark chocolate. I think this is ready to be drunk but no hurry. Nice streak of acidity as well.

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• 2006 Giuseppe Campagnola Amarone della Valpolicella Classico 92 Points

  Italy, Veneto, Valpolicella, Amarone della Valpolicella Classico

  I had not had this before and was very impressed. It is still primal, but shows great fruit with lots of tight layering. It actually drank somewhat like a young Bordeaux at this point. Dry with tobacco, cherries and dust. Lots of tannins. Some heat on the finish. I liked this wine very much. I hope it evolves well.

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• 1998 Giuseppe Campagnola Amarone della Valpolicella Classico Caterina Zardini 90 Points

  Italy, Veneto, Valpolicella, Amarone della Valpolicella Classico

  Deep purple in color, opaque but a bit flat. The nose has cocoa and raisins. Full bodied. Lots of plums and raisins. Some heat on the finish. Kind of what I think of when I think of good (not great) Amarone.

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And a great finish:

• 1970 Taylor (Fladgate) Porto Vintage 92 Points

  Portugal, Douro, Porto

  Purple in color, mostly clear and bright. This took some time to open. At first blush, I found it showing chocolate and raisins but found it think with lots of heat. It had been decanting 5 hours and for my tastes, that was not enough. Some vigorous swirling and it continued to improve in my glass. It also put on weight. I think this drinks much younger than its years.

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• 1985 Gould Campbell Porto Vintage 90 Points

  Portugal, Douro, Porto

  Initially, i preferred this to the Taylor's, but as I swirled my glass, i changed my mind. Not that this changed, it did not, but the 70 Taylors improved. Also decanted about 5 hours, that seemed about right for this wine. Nice raspberries with slight dark chocolate notes. It never gained the complexity of the Taylors but was smooth and enjoyable in its own right.

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