Cambridge University Wine Society Annual Dinner with Maison Joseph Drouhin

Came up to Cambridge from Bristol for this dinner. Toni, being on the committee, managed to get me a ticket to this annual treat. See my notes on the Charmes-Chambertin. That pretty much sums up my feelings about tonight - a great night with great wines, good food and great people. A few too many pretentious, right-wing, incredibly pleased-with-themselves people, but that comes with the job really, and they're always good for an argument. And I do so love a good debate.

• 2008 Joseph Drouhin / Drouhin-Vaudon Chablis 1er Cru Vaillons 86 Points

  France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis 1er Cru

  Nose has a lot of minerality, raw green apple, citrus and a touch of butter. Citrus attack quite rapidly disappears to leave quite a flabby mid-palate that actually filled out a little after 15 minutes in the glass but never really achieved much. It finishes pretty strongly, with the citrus coming back, but while this is nice, it's also a bit boring, and the mid-palate really really lets it down. Others called it "delicate", or "elegant" - euphemisms for "thin" used to excuse prestigious producers.

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• 2007 Joseph Drouhin Chassagne-Montrachet 89 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chassagne-Montrachet

  Beautifully aromatic nose of spicy starfruit and a cross between those chewy banana sweets you get at the pick 'n' mix and that yellow gloopy medicine you used to have as a kid. This wonderful, distinctive nose leads on to a more classic flavour profile, moderately rich, slightly drying mouthfeel with good tropical fruit, well-balanced oaking and a good acid balance with a touch of whisky at the end. Excellent - 89+ points, with a little more time this could hit 90. One of the best Chardonnays I've ever had.

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• 2007 Joseph Drouhin Beaune 1er Cru Clos des Mouches Blanc 91 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Beaune 1er Cru

  Much more classic Burg nose than the Chassagne-Montrachet. Butterscotch & with pretty rich semi-tropical fruit, with a hint of those fruit salad sweets. Superb mouthfeel and exceptional balance, much more dense, rich and long than the Chassagne-Montrachet. This is one of those exceptionally well-made wines for which it is hard to describe it in terms of single flavours because they mesh together so well. This is beautiful now but should go on for at least a decade.

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• 2006 Joseph Drouhin Chorey-les-Beaune 85 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chorey-les-Beaune

  Quite bright nose, but frankly rather simple, acidic and not very interesting. Good acid on the palate and a fair amount of tannin (better in a few years?), quite tasty but...simple...and a little lacking in fruit, a bit light...meh, it's good but...meh.

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• 2007 Joseph Drouhin Chambolle-Musigny 92 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambolle-Musigny

  Rich nose, like a reduction of berries, cherries and plums. Much more dense palate than the Chorey-Les-Beaune, very good acid-tannin-fruit balance, will go on for a while. Mouthcoating feel, more cherry and soft plum with smooth, rich oak and high acid. I got a little carried away here as I'd had quite a bit to drink so may have slightly overscored this, but it's really good! 91-92 points.

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• 2001 Joseph Drouhin Charmes-Chambertin 93 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru

  Still smells rather young despite the 9 years, but showing some maturity - porcini mushroom on the nose accompanies the darker red fruit. Still has a lot of tannin and acid on the palate, this is very youthful, very rich, excellently structured, finishes loooong and just has an amazing purity of fruit and great density that I've so rarely seen in Burgundy. This is the one greatest impression I've got from this tasting - the higher-end wines we've had tonight have not been thin, contrary to my previous experience with much of Burgundy. I wouldn't say I'm a convert (I'd never buy this - I may give it 93 points, but I would much rather drink the 2000 Cos I also gave 93 points. I love this wine, and I recognise and appreciate its quality, but there are other styles I prefer) but after tonight I am no longer such a cynic.

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