Valentine's Day dinner

Lovely dinner at Nicolas. Elsa and I shared two halves and a couple of glasses of sweet. Food was excellently prepared as always, with the seafood really shining. Perfect for the smashing Meursault that we had.

• 2006 Bouchard Père et Fils Meursault 1er Cru Les Perrières 94 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru

  Tremendous. From another 375ml. Decanted for about 45 minutes, it showed even better than the last time round. If there is ever strong evidence that a good Perrieres can vie for Grand Cru status, this is it. It opened with a nose that showed great complexity for a wine so young. Lots of earth, chalky mineral, saline stoniness, opening up into creamy butter, lush yet controlled yellow fruit, kumquats, and high, lifted flower and passion fruit tones, along with pinpricks of perfumy spice like cumin and cloves. Gorgeous. Typical Meursault lines seasoned with hints of the exotic. The palate was still clearly young, with touches of alcohol lacing the back palate, but boy it was impressive. Lovely acidity for a 2006 with a mineral backbone and a great depth of flavours - sweet lemons, tangerines, ripe yellow fruit, pink guava, tropical hints, with gummy pineapple at the fore and mire spice made for a real mouth-full. The wine just peeled back, layer by layer, unfolding into a long, lush yet minerally finish, with the fragrance of butter and hazelnuts lingering in the mouth. Classy, chiselled structure, superb balance, everything was in the right place. I just wish there was a little less alcohol at the edges, but hey, how can I complain with a wine this good?

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• 2007 Mas de Daumas Gassac 90 Points

  France, Languedoc Roussillon, Languedoc, Pays d'Hérault

  From a 375ml decanted for about an hour. Very decent young wine, especially with the lamb and beef main courses we had. Rather funky on the nose to begin with, muddy, with leather, wet soil, damp leaves and rolled tobacco layered over rather new-worldly sweet cassis, plums and smoky spice. With more time though, the funk receded a bit, as did the overt sweetness on the fruit to show a pretty nice, leathery Bordeaux-like bouquet. Fine tannins and fresh acid puckered the mouth on the attack. I really liked the lively feel on the wine, although it just about strayed into tartness at points without the help of food to bring it into balance. Otherwise, it was rather delicious, with plums, cassis and sour cherries melding into a fresh finish was more sour cherry, blueberry and bramble and bramble notes. With even more time and some meat, some menthol and tobacco with a hint of garrigue appeared. An interesting enough wine and a good accompaniment with our food.

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• 2004 Domaine Cauhapé Jurançon Symphonie de Novembre 91 Points

  France, Southwest France, Jurançon

  A nice, refreshing dessert wine. Rather tight on the nose, with subtle scents of honey, sweet flowers and dried apricot. I thought the palate faired rather better. Lovely freshness, nice lines, with sweet apricoty, yellow fruit ran through by a lovely mineral streak. There were some hints of sweet cherries and plums in the mid-length finish as well, along with tons of spice. Not the most complex, but a lovely accompanaiment to cheese. This was all about balance, freshness rather than rich opulence. A really pleasant end to the meal.

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