White and Red 2007 Burgundy

In a word, uninspiring.

• 2007 Domaine Jean-Marc Morey Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Caillerets

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru

  Too dark for its age. Ripe nose with caramel, orange, and pineapple. Low acid and atypical. This is a joke for white Burgundy-too fat and/or already on the way downhill. Drink now, or better yet, drink never.

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• 2007 Domaine Fontaine-Gagnard Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Caillerets

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru

  Full yellow, deeper than I would expect. More floral and less fruit driven than the JM Morey example. Nice minerality and springier acidity.

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• 2007 Jean Noel Gagnard Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Caillerets

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru

  Finally, appropriately pale. Closed aromatically. Light and tight with subtle citrus and a clinging, earth-infused finish. The best of the 3 Caillerets.

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• 2007 Jacques-Frédéric Mugnier Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru Clos de la Maréchale

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru

  Light clear red. Pungent licorice nose. Light, very clear, tangy red fruits. Delicate, good acidity. Nice for what's there, but insubstantial, fleeting impression.

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• 2007 Jacques-Frédéric Mugnier Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Fuées

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru

  Even lighter in color than the Marechale. Earthy nose that shows little fruit. Mixture of black fruit and licorice with some sap. Overall, still lightish weight. The fruit is more diffuse than in the Nuits but has a bit more depth and volume. Nothing about this says Chambolle.

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• 2007 David Duband Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Gruenchers

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru

  Pale as a rose. Not much to smell. Very light feel. Mostly earth, a bit of wood, and lacking fruit. Indefensibly poor quality.

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• 2007 Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Aux Reignots

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru

  Medium ruby core, light edge. After the insipid reds before this, notably dark, serious, meaty aromatics. Oaky base but complex black fruit and smokiness with some weight, sap, and persistence. Not that much structure with lowish acids and unobtrusive tannins. Best red by a mile but hardly a $200 wine.

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