ROEL
Posts: 972
Joined: 4/18/2007 From: Linsmeau, Belgium Status: offline
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quote:
ORIGINAL: chrisrsprague My understanding was that communism-era Tokaji wasn't very good. Well it's a hit and miss situation. For starters the communism-era wines were made exclusively in an oxidative style by the state-run Borkombinat (Monimpex), whereas post-communism has seen a lot of new, independent producers making Tokaji in a more reductive way, producing more accessible, internationally styled wines. The two styles are of course completely different and the pre-1989 wines are more likely to displease the uninitiated, whereas one could argue that they are a better representation of the "soul" of Tokayi. That being said, the Aszus from the eighties and before can be great wines, but the chances of opening a bad bottle of Tokaji (or should I say a bottle of bad Tokaji?) are significantly higher. Out of 3 1983 5 Putts I opened over the last years, one was maderised, one was over the hill but drinkable and one (the most recent one) was excellent. I still have a number of these in the cellar (I can't remember why I bought 10, but hey, they're there now ;-)), along with a '68 and a '57 Aszu Eszencia (BTW 2009 was the last vintage in which Aszu Eszencia was made, the name can no longer be used). As has been said they have a caramel like quality, along with sherry, bruised apple and candied orange. Not a bad match for chocolate actually. The modern ones are more styled along the lines of Sauternes, emphasizing fruit, honey and orange marmelade, although oxidative wines are still being made by some producers. None of the post-1990 wines I have had (5 Putts and Eszencias) disapponted. The quality of the winemaking has clearly gone up as the influx of money from western investors has enabled the use of state of the art winemaking technology and there is more attention to detail than before (the corks on the old wines were ridiculously short). About ageing: there is a lot of sugar and if there is acidity to match (which should be the case), they will certainly age for 20 years after release or more. Prices for the big names are going up (Szepsy, Royal Tokaji, Oremus, Uri Borok), but if you have access to wines from smaller producers (difficult on your side of the pond I suppose), these wines can actually be an excellent QPR. BTW: an interesting (albeit slightly dated) read on Tokaji in this link
< Message edited by ROEL -- 9/27/2021 3:35:17 AM >
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