KPB
Posts: 4663
Joined: 11/25/2012 From: Ithaca, New York Status: offline
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I've tasted at Kistler, back in the spring of 2017. For me the style had drifted from what I used to look for with Kistler and there was a bit too much of the California "butter" on most of their wines, although they did have one that felt more crisp and delineated to me: the 2014 Kistler vineyard Chardonnay (and I liked the 2014 Kistler Pinot Noir too -- only red they poured at that visit). In contrast, their 2014 Vine Hill and Trenton wines were both very flabby, relative to my taste. But people who are focused on Chardonnay to pair with lobster and crab, for example, where the buttery elements are key to why it works, could have the exact opposite reaction and find those two to be ideal, and the Kistler vineyard one too "sharp" or "steely". Now, those comments related to the 2014 vintage, a good vintage from a fairly ripe year. In contrast by now they would be pouring 2016 or 2017. In terms of weather, 2016 was like 2014 but by then the ground was very dry, so I doubt that the 2016 style was extremely different -- if anything, the wines might be expected to be even more exotic. 2017 started off very wet (lots of spring rain), and then during the late summer started to have these extreme heat spikes, to 105 or 110 degrees (maybe even more in some vineyards). Spikes can give you excessive ripeness very suddenly. So you won't find high acidity in 2017, and might notice some exotic aromas (sweet pineapple, for example, or passionfruit) that wouldn't be common in cooler years. By the way, Steve Kistler himself no longer makes the wines -- he is at Occidental now, although presumably he consults during the final blend stage. Still, during the 2014 to 2017 period, the new winemaker will have taken on more and more decisions, so one factor, other than weather, is that the house style itself may shift. Should be an interesting tasting! Check out the volcanic stone they have in the tasting room. As light as a balloon... very surprising when you first pick it up!
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Ken Birman The Professor of Brettology
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