Joe the Critic
Posts: 118
Joined: 1/18/2014 From: San Jose, California Status: offline
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quote:
ORIGINAL: Wine Grove I believe 2017 was also a pretty down year for Bordeaux as well, after a nice 3 year run. Lot of frost killed like 50% of their early season growth, particularly on the Right bank. The problem with 2017 Bordeaux was not about the quality, as I understand, but rather the pricing. The producers had just jacked up their prices for the successful 2015 and 2016 vintages, just as they did in 2009/2010. 2017 Bordeaux was less age-worthy than the two preceding vintages; however, due to the low volumes, producers were unwilling to cut prices from the 2016 levels. The result was an over-priced vintage that didn't sell en primeur. This was really an artifact of the negociant system used in Bordeaux, where sought-after producers can force middlemen to pay prices that bear little relationship to the market. Essentially they were saying to the negociants, "You made good money on our terrific 2016s, so now you must subsidize us by over-paying for our 2017s." The negociants must play along if they wish to keep their allocations for future vintages. As consumers, it would make perfect sense to buy 2017 Bordeaux if they were priced appropriately, since the quality was generally good and the wines will be ready to drink before the 2016s. However, importers and retailers here in the U.S. avoided the 2017s, so consumers are unlikely to find many good values there. As for 2017 in California, the majority of the fruit had already been picked in Napa before the wildfires, so smoke taint is not an issue for those wines. (I have not heard any examples of smoke affecting the must in fermentation tanks.) However, as others have pointed out, weather was exceptionally hot for several weeks leading up to the harvest, which may well have affected the quality. I personally know one small producer who buys grapes from the Mount Veeder area. In 2017 they were not able to pick their grapes until after the fires, and the grapes were smoke-tainted. They decided to sell the wine off in bulk rather than bottle it under their own label. Unfortunately not every producer is as ethical; I once made the mistake of buying a 2008 Sonoma Coast Pinot from Alexander Valley that was tainted and barely drinkable. I'll never buy anything from that producer again.
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You can observe a lot just by watching. - Yogi Berra
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