1997 Supertuscan/Italian retrospective + 1990 Bollinger R.D.

5 course dinner with Camille, Dirk, Ed, Dean, Wayne L., Richard, Jen and Ramsey. Dirk made five courses, all of which were great, and we evaluated a group of 1997 Supertuscans.

• 1990 Bollinger Champagne R.D. Extra Brut 94 Points

  France, Champagne

  Served with Oysters Lafitte, an outstanding pairing. Golden colour with fine bubbles. Huge amounts of golden delicious apple, dough, nuts and a tinge of honey and flowers on the nose. Similar flavors on the palate, with sharp acidity (but not overly) and a long finish of dough and apples. Better as it opened. Acidity cuts right through the creaminess of the oysters.

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• 1997 Isole e Olena Cepparello Toscana IGT 95 Points

  Italy, Tuscany, Toscana IGT

  Ruby-garnet color with no bricking. Nose of great dark cherries, black olives, and anise. A chocolate element begins to emerge after a few hours. Full bodied on the palate, with dark cherry, spice, licorice and oliveflavors. Gripping tannins and moderate acidity in this tremendously balanced wine.

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• 1997 Podere Poggio Scalette Il Carbonaione Alta Valle della Greve IGT 90 Points

  Italy, Tuscany, Alta Valle della Greve IGT

  Ruby garnet color with some signs of bricking. Stewed plums and tomatoes on the nose, with soya sauce elements as well. On the palate this is medium bodied with nicely integrated tannin, medium acidity, and cinnamon/clove flavors as well. Nice, but paled in comparison to the Cepparello served beside it.

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• 1997 Antinori Tignanello 93 Points

  Italy, Tuscany, Toscana IGT

  Ruby red color with no signs of age. Strawberry, violets, black cherry, with a touch of herb and some wood on the nose. Bright fruit with great acidity and gripping tannins, this is still very young and could age another 10 years. Very similar to, but not as good as the 2004, in my opinion.

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• 1997 Avignonesi Desiderio 93 Points

  Italy, Tuscany, Toscana IGT

  Ruby red to rim. Great blueberries, blackberries, herbs and cedar on the nose. On the palate, very tart red fruit, strong herbal component and cedar notes. Moderate acidity, well integrated tannins, and overall drinking very well right now. Probably the best drinking wine of the night.

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• 1997 Le Macchiole Paleo Rosso 89 Points

  Italy, Tuscany, Bolgheri, Bolgheri Superiore

  Ruby red color. Nose driven by bright cherries and strawberry, with cream and smoke elements as well. Bright red fruit on the palate, with great acidity, was and peanut notes. Strange wine, but nice.

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• 1997 Tenuta Guado al Tasso (Antinori) Bolgheri Superiore Tenuta Belvedere 95 Points

  Italy, Tuscany, Bolgheri, Bolgheri Superiore

  Very complex wine, with a nose of fresh tomato, chocolate, blueberry, mint/eucalyptus and black cherry. Opened up beautifully with loads of dark chocolate, mint and black cherry/blueberry on the palate. Excellent balance as well.

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• 1997 Argiano Solengo Toscana IGT 95 Points

  Italy, Tuscany, Toscana IGT

  Ruby red color. Great sweet fruits, milk chocolate, caramel, and herbs on the nose. Reminds me of Redigaffi, but at 1/4 the price. Very sweet palate with red fruits, lots of chocolate and cocoa and herbs. Gripping tannin and bright acidity. Great balance. Mushroom notes began to emerge after a few hours.

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• 1997 Isole e Olena Vin Santo del Chianti Classico 95 Points

  Italy, Tuscany, Chianti, Vin Santo del Chianti Classico

  Amber color. Awesome nose and palate of almonds, brown sugar and maple, with mango fruit. Great mouth coating viscosity and beautfiul acidity on the palate. This was outstanding stuff.

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Overall, the 1997s showed great class, and for many of them, they could age another 5-10 years (with a couple of exceptions). Only two slightly flawed bottles (Guado and Bollinger), but Dirk opened a second of each, with both being spectacular the second time around. The three 95 pointers were all 95s in completely different ways, with the Cepparello being brawny and powerful, the Guado very complex and awesome on the nose, and the Solengo just had that sweetness and delciousness that made you love it.