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F.X. Pichler

Producer website

"…F.X. Pichler is the Chateau Latour, Domaine de la Romanée-Conti, Zind-Humbrecht, Sandrone and Helen Turley of the Wachau." –Robert Parker, The Wine Advocate It is not often that one can talk about the greatest producer in a given country (but Austria is small, so here one has an advantage). And while there are many great winemakers in Austria, none is more synonymous with great Austrian wine than F.X. Pichler, or as he is simply called, F.X. In fact so riveting is his reputation that one author on Austrian wine who was prompted to list the 100 greatest producers in Austria, in order of greatness, lists F.X. Pichler as #1. When one tastes the wines, you’ll see why all the awe. They are truly monumental dry white wines – each with a mouth-filling presence, finish and complexity that leaves one speechless. His Riesling Smaragd Loibnerberg is the quintessence of rich, exotic multi-layered Riesling. His Grüner Smaragd Kellerberg and Grüner “M” are the most rich and complex expression of this unique varietal one can attain. "Lucas Pichler was one of the numerous growers to describe the relatively low alcohol and efficacious acidity of his 2007s as “classic,” even though at this address in particular, one can hardly consider that statistically correct. The finished wines remind me a bit of the superb Pichler 1999s which were lushly, at times even extravagantly fruity (not to mention intensely mineral) while remaining refreshing and moderate in alcohol. F.X. Pichler compares the best of this year’s Rieslings with his 1997s, and certainly in terms of sheer quality it is hard to argue with that assessment. The Pichlers have never favored hedging or leaf pulling, and think that the consequence this year was to protect the embryonic bunches from the searing heat and sun of July and to enhance ripening in the long autumn. Of course, the flip side of this could be the trapping of water and promotion of botyrtis. And Lucas Pichler relates that to achieve excellent Federspiel, it was necessary to laboriously cut out botrytized and otherwise imperfect portions from a substantial share of the clusters. For Pichlers (in contrast with Alzingers) – 2007 was more difficult in terms of botrytis and selection – than 2006, especially with Gruner Veltliner. In both Federspiel and Smaragd categories, they held off on picking Riesling, with (to say the least!) demonstrable success." David Schildknecht, The Wine Advocate

Last edited on 2/25/2013 by Cunningham

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