Some winemakers are producers. A few are truly artisans. And then there are that handful who could perhaps be best described as monastic in their approach-making wine, as their duty, in complete harmony with their creator. With Vatan, I find it preposterous to "judge" vintages. Literally, no matter what the conditions of the year, whatever he creates is remarkable, with amazing consistency from vintage to vintage. When asked how he can do this, he replies that it is so simple a matter that it needs no explanation-if you plant low-yielding vines on only the steepest, perfectly exposed slopes, prune severely, provide only necessary and natural treatments, (and as little as possible, forcing the vine down for strength and character), harvesting after all the rest have finished (no problem finding pickers then!) and vinifying according only to the traditional (actually ancient) methods-it becomes a question of comparing the personality of each vintage, not which is "better". What is this word "ancient" I use Vinification in old, old barrels-a natural vessel, but not with new oak, which would interfere with the natural fruit of the Sauvignon and terroir of Chavignol; one racking, and then bottling with no fining or filtration when the conditions are perfect in nature. If this sounds too out-moded to be true, you are in for an experience with your first taste. A unique wine which is unequalled, and only approached in Sancerre by the Cotat Domaine, which is enormous in comparison to Vatan (total production 500 cases, of which we in America get 125). The Pinot Rouge vines are also situated on the Mont Damnes, treated organically, and bottled unfined and unfiltered. There is no manipulation of the fermentation either (like must-heating or a pre-fermentation maceration), so this may not always be the darkest colored Pinot, but it is a marvel of complexity, terroir, and finesse. 150 cases a year produced.

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