White

2008 Daniel-Etienne Defaix Chablis Vieilles Vignes

Chardonnay

  • France
  • Burgundy
  • Chablis

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Community Tasting Note

  • Riccardo Malocchio wrote: 92 points

    May 6, 2014 - Revisiting this after about a half-year, and even that small amount of time has been so kind. Smoky, flinty, autolytic, and highly mineralic. The fruit is austere on entry, but then develops a beautiful honeyed edge through the finish. Still intensely structured, but mellower. The acidity remains electric, but not as shrill and overwhelming as before. The length is remarkable, pulsing with energy as buckets of extract settle on the tongue like dense, gingery spice. A wonderful village wine, and still very much on the upswing.

    I should add that among the 6 bottles I've drunk, none had even a hint of oxidation. Given some questions raised about excessive lees stirring leading to prem-ox, I should note the atypical batonnage performed at this estate. Rather than stirring the lees, they are "vaccumed" off the bottom of the cuve and then dropped through a slow moving fan back into the wine and allowed to settle again. Not sure if this practice is done elsewhere, but I wanted to note it given all the justifiable fears regarding white Burgundy prem-ox and its suggested causes.

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