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Goedhuis Burgundy Growers Walkaround Tasting

Saatchi Gallery, London SW3

Tasted March 3, 2010 by Rupert with 891 views

Introduction

Goedhuis arranged for over two dozen of the growers it represents to come and present examples of their wines. The reds were mainly mini-verticals of recent vintages, the whites tended to be a range of climats from the last couple of years. After the first half hour, it's a bit of a scrum, and I don't think that swirl and spit is the way to drink these wines (or any others, really). But who would pass up the opportunity to try a clutch of vintages of Hudelot-Noellat RSV, Ponsot CdlR or Lambrays?

Flight 1 (4 notes)

Red
2008 Serafin Père et Fils Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Fonteny France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru
Very pretty, lots of sap, not as oaky as I'd been expecting
Red
2006 Serafin Père et Fils Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Fonteny France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru
More substantial than the 08 - strong, tannic, lots of grip
Red
2002 Serafin Père et Fils Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Fonteny France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru
Very spicy, fresh, good grip
Red
1996 Serafin Père et Fils Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Fonteny France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru
Aromatic, sweaty, strong, fine

Flight 2 (5 notes)

Red
2008 Domaine des Lambrays Clos des Lambrays France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos des Lambrays Grand Cru
Sweet and sappy, with a strawberry pastille quality, sumptuous - fantastic
Red
2006 Domaine des Lambrays Clos des Lambrays France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos des Lambrays Grand Cru
Grippy and closed - tough going today, but no reason to doubt it will come round
Red
2004 Domaine des Lambrays Clos des Lambrays France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos des Lambrays Grand Cru
Even nastier than last time - raw and green. Quite vile
Red
2002 Domaine des Lambrays Clos des Lambrays France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos des Lambrays Grand Cru
Tight and fine, approachable but really needs longer - still tannic
Red
2000 Domaine des Lambrays Clos des Lambrays France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos des Lambrays Grand Cru
Back to sweetness and sap, easy, lovely

Flight 3 (8 notes)

Red
2007 Domaine Ponsot Clos de la Roche Vieilles Vignes France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos de la Roche Grand Cru
Soft, red-fruited, very charming
Red
2004 Domaine Ponsot Clos de la Roche Vieilles Vignes France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos de la Roche Grand Cru
Fizzy, earthy, fresh and spicy - very good
Red
2002 Domaine Ponsot Clos de la Roche Vieilles Vignes France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos de la Roche Grand Cru
Earthy, a bit pongy in fact, but lots of bright red fruit too - seemed pretty ready
Red
2001 Domaine Ponsot Clos de la Roche Vieilles Vignes France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos de la Roche Grand Cru
Briary, wild, grippy, lots of dimension
Red
2000 Domaine Ponsot Clos de la Roche Vieilles Vignes France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos de la Roche Grand Cru
Smoother and more resolved than the 01, ready to go right now
Red
1999 Domaine Ponsot Clos de la Roche Vieilles Vignes France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos de la Roche Grand Cru
Still a bit reticent, but unlike last time when I wasn't convinced, this time it was clearly a profound wine, not big though
Red
1998 Domaine Ponsot Clos de la Roche Vieilles Vignes France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos de la Roche Grand Cru
Earthy, perhaps even a touch of TCA and tannic
Red
1997 Domaine Ponsot Clos de la Roche Vieilles Vignes France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos de la Roche Grand Cru
Raw and stalky - surprising

Flight 4 (4 notes)

Red
2002 Alain Hudelot-Noëllat Romanée St. Vivant France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Romanée St. Vivant Grand Cru
Lifted, floral, light - lovely, but not what I was expecting given the exoticism of the Clos Vougeot in this vintage
Red
1999 Alain Hudelot-Noëllat Romanée St. Vivant France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Romanée St. Vivant Grand Cru
Ripe and exotic, smoky, powerful - really grand burgundy
Red
1995 Alain Hudelot-Noëllat Romanée St. Vivant France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Romanée St. Vivant Grand Cru
Smells divine, ineffably complex fragrance, a citrus twist, the tannin not sticking out like it usually does in 1995 - an absolute stunner
Red
1989 Alain Hudelot-Noëllat Romanée St. Vivant France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Romanée St. Vivant Grand Cru
Earth, spice, still fresh and lively - lovely wine

Flight 5 (2 notes)

Red
2007 Domaine de L'Arlot Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru Clos des Forêts St. Georges France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru
Pretty, soft, bursting with strawberry fruit - this was really gorgeous
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Red
1999 Domaine de L'Arlot Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru Clos des Forêts St. Georges France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru
My memory of a bottle earlier in the year was of a tough old thing, but this seemed to be nearly there - substantial and richly fruited

Flight 6 (2 notes)

White
2007 Paul Pillot Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Caillerets France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru
Oaky, sweet, tropical - ho hum...
White
2007 Paul Pillot Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru La Romanée France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru
Much more concentrated than the Caillerets, real power and verve, very lovely

Flight 7 (4 notes)

White
2007 Marc Colin et Fils Saint-Aubin 1er Cru Sur le Sentier du Clou Blanc France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Saint-Aubin 1er Cru
A bit soupy to start with, but it better on the palate - bags of fruit
White
2007 Marc Colin et Fils Saint-Aubin 1er Cru En Remilly Blanc France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Saint-Aubin 1er Cru
More oomph than the Sentier du Clou
White
2007 Marc Colin et Fils Chassagne-Montrachet Les Encégnières France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chassagne-Montrachet
A big step up from the St Aubins - real power - this was gorgeous
White
2007 Marc Colin et Fils Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Chenevottes France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru
Not sure about this - masses of oak, but the fruit does come through

Flight 8 (3 notes)

White
2008 Michel Colin-Deléger et Fils Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru En Remilly France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru
Ripe, focused, deep fruit - brilliant!
White
2007 Michel Colin-Deléger et Fils Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru En Remilly France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru
Just like the 08 - brilliant
White
2006 Michel Colin-Deléger et Fils Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru En Remilly France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru
Mature tasting and soapy - not a patch on the two younger vintages

Flight 9 (2 notes)

White
2008 Philippe Chavy Puligny-Montrachet Les Corvées des Vignes France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Puligny-Montrachet
Very ripe and sweet - too much
White
2007 Philippe Chavy Puligny-Montrachet Rue Rousseau France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Puligny-Montrachet
Energetic entry, much better than the Corvees - more acid to balance the ripeness

Flight 10 (4 notes)

White
2008 Jean-Philippe Fichet Meursault Les Chevalières France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault
Earthy edge, sweet fruit
White
2007 Jean-Philippe Fichet Meursault Les Chevalières France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault
More size than the 08, good balance, very rich
White
2006 Jean-Philippe Fichet Meursault Les Chevalières France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault
Softer than the 07, brilliantly fruity
White
2005 Jean-Philippe Fichet Meursault Les Chevalières France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault
From magnum: oak comes through, ripe, concentrated, vibrant
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