Big, floral, almost sweet seeming nose - some said Riesling-esque. Stunningly dry, structured and intense palate. I like this, but not for everyone. A friend who likes quite austere white wine said 'it has everything except charm', which is probably fair enough. The kind of wine that is giving you an exam, but sometimes that can be interesting...

A gorgeous, poised and elegant, Barbaresco, with real typicity and clearly different from the 2 Giacosa Barolos drunk alongside. This still has plenty of structure, with lovely light elegant mineral and floral components. On one level ready to drink - the tannins are fine and not blocking the fruit - but also a way from proper maturity.

This is a very great wine in the making, but still has a long way to go. Along with the classic tar and roses, there is a fantastic meaty, savory note here, which came out more and more over the 6 hrs or so the bottle was open and seems a real vineyard signature. This really isn't at all ready, though - the 1990 Riserva drunk alongside showed what this might become if we are lucky. Hold off for at least 5 years.

Absolutely stunning. Rather more mature that I was expecting - compared to the 99 alongside this seemed far more than 9 years older - but completely a point. Classic rose essence, meaty, gamey umami sweetness - almost porty -, forest floor notes, slight volatility and oxidative notes, but adding to the complexity not detracting. Structure still there, wonderful acidity and fine tannin, all resolved into exactly where you'd hope this to be. One the very greatest wines I've ever drunk.