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Uncommon Varieties

Tasted June 29, 2010 by andtheodor with 541 views

Flight 1 - Whites (3 notes)

White
2005 Zind-Humbrecht Muscat Goldert France, Alsace, Alsace Grand Cru
92 points
Clean, elegant nose of honeysuckle, pear, crayons, orange, plus a hint of chalkiness and a touch of something volatile. Very nice!
Lush, rich, slightly oily and faintly sweet, this repeats the honeysuckle-orange richness on the palate. Great with the pizza and evolved nicely in the glass. Outstanding!
White
2007 Pyramid Valley Sémillon Growers Collection Hille Vineyard New Zealand, South Island, Marlborough
Pretty hazy appearance with yeast, jalapeno, cheese, and rubber dominating the intense nose. On the palate lots of burnt earth, roasted poblano, tire fire, chemical note. Interesting and really different, almost like a whacked-out white Cabernet Franc. Ultimately this came across lacking structure and more of a curiosity than a session wine. I wouldn't buy this but it makes me look forward to the other Pyramid Valley bottlings I have.
White
2008 Jean Perrier et Fils Vin de Savoie Apremont Cuvée Gastronomie France, Savoie, Vin de Savoie Apremont
Light and citrusy on the nose. Banana? Flint? Socks? Driest of the bunch, biting acidity, bit of oak. Pretty plain. "Oyster wine" declared somebody. Good, but not something I'll follow up on. [Jacquère]

Flight 2 - Young (3 notes)

Red
2004 Fattoria Alois Trebulanum Campania IGT Italy, Campania, Campania IGT
flawed
Cooked [Casavecchia].
Red
2006 Eaglepoint Ranch Winery Petite Sirah Eaglepoint Ranch USA, California, North Coast, Mendocino County
84 points
After my cooked Casavecchia, this was the next most uncommon varietal I had at home. As before; crazy purple color, minty, blueberry reduction, jammy, tannic, oaky. Great depth and intensity of fruit but really young and a distracting amount of oak.
Red
2007 Aveleda Douro Charamba Portugal, Douro
79 points
Youthful, plummy, red fruit, oak, a bit of funk that seems common in Portuguese table wine. One-dimensional, simple. Average wine.

Flight 3 - Mature (3 notes)

Red
1995 Benanti Etna Rovittello Italy, Sicily, Etna DOC
flawed
Musty, madeira nose. Cooked? [Nerello]
Red
1998 Foradori Granato Italy, Trentino Alto-Adige / Veneto, Vigneti delle Dolomiti IGT
Bready, cherry, coffee nose. Mushrooms developing with time. Really hard to coax much out of this wine aromatically. Tightly structured, tannic, young and old at the same time as the flavors are largely secondary; leather, mushroom, sweat dominate. Not flawed but not quite right. [Teroldego Rotaliano]
Red
2001 Cottanera Sicilia L'Ardenza Italy, Sicily, Sicilia
88 points
Dark with an explosive nose; juicy, black plum reduction, grape big league chew, licorice, slightly herbal. Decent finish but lacks a little stuffing in the midpalate. Overall, impressive fruit that really verges on artificial grapiness and not a whole lot more going on. [Mondeuse Noir]

Flight 4 - Dessert (2 notes)

Okay, so Furmint and Grenache aren't exactly "uncommon". Nobody complained when the Tokaji came out.

White - Sweet/Dessert
2003 Chateau Dereszla Tokaji Aszú 5 Puttonyos Hungary, Tokaji
93 points
Botrytis nose; spiced baked apples, mandarin peel, dried apricot, grilled pineapple, faint bitterness. Great acid/sugar balance and a finish that cleans up after itself and makes you come back for more. Outstanding!
Red - Fortified
2007 M. Chapoutier Banyuls Vin Doux Naturel France, Languedoc Roussillon, Roussillon, Banyuls
Black and syrupy, this comes off as liquid Turkish fig and prunes. Pretty sweet, very dense, and immensely tannic, not your typical dessert wine. The heft and alcohol are reminiscent of young port, perhaps this has a big upside with some aging? For now, definitely not for me.
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