Domaine Ghislaine Barthod Lunch

The Ledbury, Notting Hill, London

Tasted July 21, 2010 by Paul D with 585 views

Flight 1 - Fizz (1 note)

White - Sparkling
1998 Henriot Champagne Brut Millésimé France, Champagne
Enjoyed this (although in truth did not pay it a great deal of attention). It had a lovely biscuity nose, ripe lemony fruit, fresh but quite rich on the palate with a persistent fine mousse. Very good.

Flight 2 - Bourgogne and Veroilles (2 notes)

Served with lightly cooked tuna with roasted tomato jam, dried olive and herbs

Red
1996 Domaine Ghislaine Barthod / Barthod-Noëllat Bourgogne France, Burgundy, Bourgogne
Decent deep colour. The nose was not overly intense and at first a little closed, but did open slowly to reveal some vestiges of dried red fruit, earthy notes, slight bitter note. A little austere on the palate, but not unattractively so and did broaden and deepen slightly with time. Crisp acidity and a moderate length, firm finish. Pretty good and still going strong. **
Red
1993 Domaine Ghislaine Barthod / Barthod-Noëllat Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Véroilles France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru
More revealing on the nose than the Bourgogne which preceeded it and slightly more intense too. Some strawberry notes, but floral too with a distinct savoury, meaty edge. Quite developed. Not hugely deep on the palate but an attractive combination of fruit and sous-bois, with a meaty edge. Slightly firm, medium/good length finish. Enjoyable, mature, but no need to hurry. ***

Flight 3 - Beaux Bruns (2 notes)

Served with raviolo of girolles with confit chicken wings and summer truffle

Red
2000 Domaine Ghislaine Barthod / Barthod-Noëllat Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Aux Beaux Bruns France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru
Markedly more youthful on the nose than the previous two wines and indeed the 98 which followed it, but lovely deep, pure black cherry and plum nose, with notes of vanilla and a slight coffee edge. Attractive pure and deep black cherry fruit on the palate, again remarkably youthful flavour profile and a pleasing silky, almost glossy texture. Acidity slightly subuded compared to the 98 but still sufficient to balance and carry a very good length finish. Less structured than the 98 certainly but one still suspects this will go for a lot longer and improve as it gains complexity. Excellent ***(*).
Red
1998 Domaine Ghislaine Barthod / Barthod-Noëllat Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Aux Beaux Bruns France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru
More gamey, meaty and wild on the nose than the 2000 with more structure and particularly firmness of tannin on the palate. Not overly firm though and only really detectable on the good length finish. Underneath the tertiary flavours quite red fruity. A lovely 98, starting to drink well. ***(1/2)

Flight 4 - Les Cras (2 notes)

Served with best end of lamb cooked over marjoram with borlotti beans and artichoke

Red
1998 Domaine Ghislaine Barthod / Barthod-Noëllat Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Cras France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru
More developed, savoury spicy nose with a meaty edge, a base of strawberry fruit and soil notes. Good complexity. Still quite firm on the palate, but grippy rather than obtrusive tannins and with lovely tangy acidity carrying a long, savoury, slightly minerally finish. Love this wine but it really needs a bit more time. ***(*).
Red
2001 Domaine Ghislaine Barthod / Barthod-Noëllat Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Cras France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru
Notably lighter appearance than the 98. Perfumed nose with strawberries, raspberries and floral notes. Moderatly but firmly tannic on the palate, with decent depth but quite light and airy too. Found this a little difficult to read. ***?

Flight 5 - The 2000s (2 notes)

Served with selection of cheeses

Red
2000 Domaine Ghislaine Barthod / Barthod-Noëllat Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Cras France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru
Again very youthful on the nose, slightly reminiscent of the 00 Beaux Bruns in fact with slightly darker cherry fruit, plums, vanilla and the same slight espresso edge. Deep red and black cherry fruit on the palate, quite minerally, with some attractive savoury notes just starting to peek through. Still youthful certainly with decent grip but real depth and bounce and a very long finish. Really lovely, will surely improve. ****(1/2).
Red
2000 Domaine Ghislaine Barthod / Barthod-Noëllat Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Charmes France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru
Nose much more evolved and a little less intense than the Cras. Truffly, gamey, earthy with a hint of the farmyard. Found this soft, indeed slightly structureless on the palate, particularly when compared to the 00 Cras and not as deep or long either. Still a lovely wine and certainly drinking well now. ***

Closing

A hugely enjoyable lunch where all the wines showed really well and provided an interesting insight into Chambolle 1er crus - the Veroilles, slightly lighter, floral although also perhaps a tad rustic, the Beaux Bruns richer and slightly fuller, Les Cras - more structured, deeper and minerally, built to last and finally Les Charmes, softer and more approachable. Chapeau to Ghislaine!

The food, which as usual was delicious and superbly presented and (with the exception perhaps of the cheese) matched the wines extremely well.

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