Cos d'Estournel & Tokaj-Hétszőlő With Jean-Guillaume Prats
Wine Exchange - Orange, CA
Tasted November 11, 2010 by Badfish with 1,131 views
Introduction
This was a tasting I did not want to miss as it is not everyday you can taste the wines from a top Bordeaux estate with the man in charge. I was able to discuss a few topics with Jean-Guillaume such as the vineyard practices at Cos d'Estournel and the merits of biodynamic viticulture. He was very candid and said one of the biggest changes in the vineyards over the last ten years has been that they are much more detailed in tending the vines and harvesting the grapes. My understanding is that they are using methods such as GPS to manage micro-plots of the vineyard to ensure uniform ripeness and quality. I also thought his comments on biodynamics were interesting in that some of the organic concepts may be worth utilizing but the mystical elements were too far out there to be taken seriously. He also brought up an interesting explanation of why biodynamics are used far less in Bordeaux than in Burgundy. Apparently the techniques are easier to use in the more continental climate of Burgundy than the oceanic climate of Bordeaux where rot is a major concern under biodynamic viticulture. As for the wines I thought the offerings from Cos d'Estournel were very good and potentially brilliant. They are ripe structured wines with a lot of oak but I think there is adequate balance and complexity to predict great things for the future.
The wines of Hétszolo were an added bonus as I do not have a lot of experience with the Tokaj region. This winery was represented by the charming Kata Ádász who provided insightful commentary on the wines and vineyards of this estate. I really like how complex this portfolio is in that the wines are made in a number of different styles using different blends of grapes. The wines presented here were very good in quality with complex fruit and solid balance throughout. I loved both of the 6 Puttonyos and the Eszencia as they are loaded with complexity yet deftly textured and balanced. Hétszolo is a new acquisition by the owner of Cos d'Estournel so I can only imagine that quality will rise as they bring more resources and attention to detail to this noble estate.
I believe all of the wines were decanted six hours prior to the tasting.
Flight 1 (12 notes)
White
2009 Tokaj Hétszőlő Furmint Tokaji
Hungary, Tokaji
High toned and attractive on the nose with aromas of citrus, slate, spices, and pepper. The palate is firm and structured in a spice and mineral driven style. The flavors seem to lack significant fruit density but they are complex with notes of stone, apple, spices, and pepper. This is a nice little wine that provides a racy complex experience at a great price point.
Red
2006 Goulée
France, Bordeaux, Médoc
Very rich, opulent, and oaky on the nose with notes of coffee, chocolate, currant, and berries. There is tremendous extraction and structure obvious when tasting this wine, especially on the finish which exhibits drying tannins. The flavors tend towards red and black berries but they are really obstructed by the extraction at this point. Who knows if this wine will ever be approachable. 86?
Red
2007 Les Pagodes de Cos
France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Estèphe
There are restrained and elegant aromas here with green tinges to the notes of red berries and herbs. The palate is rich and spicy with oak influence and the texture is quite drying and alcoholic. The flavors are dark with significant leather and pepper influence. I think this wine is too structured for the fruit present and the oak does not help either.
Red
2004 Château Cos d'Estournel
France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Estèphe
We clearly switch gears with this offering as the aromas are much more expressive and complex. Very pretty on the nose with notes of currant, spices, raspberry, earth, and oak. The palate is concentrated and structured but the fruit is dense and delineated enough to balance those components. The fruit is dark and attractive with layers of spices and oak. While backward I think this wine has enough balance to reward cellaring.
Red
2003 Château Cos d'Estournel
France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Estèphe
This wine is very ripe on the nose, actually bordering on roasted, but wow what a pure expression of fruit. Crème de cassis, blackberry, and spices just waft out as you swirl this wine. The palate is even more stunning with an explosion of ripe fruit essence. The flavors are complex with notes of dark berries and currants, clay, and herbs. The texture is firm yet approachable and the acidity is surprisingly fresh for the vintage. While obviously young and primary this wine has a lot of potential due to the unique fruit expression and the balance of all components. 95+
Red
2005 Château Cos d'Estournel
France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Estèphe
Wow where to start with this beast? The bouquet is shockingly complex with delicate tones of flowers, earth, stones, and mint interleaved with the pure berry and currant extract. There is huge density, significant oak, and heady yet sweet tannins on the palate. The flavors are complex and radiant with specific notes of currant, blackberry, herbs, minerals, and earth. Everything about this wine is massive but the remarkable balance makes it surprisingly approachable. I believe this vintage has the most potential due to the structure and the staggering complexity already apparent. 97+
White - Sweet/Dessert
2007 Tokaj Hétszőlő Tokaji Late Harvest
Hungary, Tokaji
Quite Riesling like on the nose with aromas of stone fruits, lime, and minerals. The palate is mellow with lowish acidity and flavors of pear, spices, and apple. I find this to be a little flat due to the lack of minerality and bracing texture but the quality is good.
White - Sweet/Dessert
2003 Tokaj Hétszőlő Tokaji Aszú 3 Puttonyos
Hungary, Tokaji
Very unique and complex on the nose with notes of petrol, honey, botrytis spice, crème brulee, and poached pear. This opens with gorgeous texture leading to flavors that mirror the nose such as stone fruits and honey. The fruit is decidedly elegant for a wine of this style but the length is good. While complex, I think if this had a little more density it would be stunning.
White - Sweet/Dessert
2001 Tokaj Hétszőlő Tokaji Aszú 5 Puttonyos
Hungary, Tokaji
The aromas are ripe and spicy in tone with notes of white raisins, honey, marmalade, botrytis, and stone fruits. Tremendous gloss to the mouthfeel while the fruit is lifted by great acidity towards the finish. The flavors tend towards marmalade, pear, spices, glue, and barley sugar. The density of fruit is superb and really sets off the complexity and the long lifted finish. The balance, texture, and density are all very solid in this wine.
White - Sweet/Dessert
2001 Tokaj Hétszőlő Tokaji Aszú 6 Puttonyos
Hungary, Tokaji
More reserved and delicate with wonderful aromas of preserved fruits, apricot, pear, chalk, and flowers. The palate is extremely concentrated and persistent with flavors of stone fruits, minerals, and a complex melange on the finish of meat, herbs, and glue. The fruit is beautifully supported by the acidity which provides great overall balance. I love the complexity of this wine and how the flavors interact with the acidity and texture.
White - Sweet/Dessert
2000 Tokaj Hétszőlő Tokaji Aszú 6 Puttonyos
Hungary, Tokaji
Very intriguing and complex on the nose with tropical notes such as banana, brown sugar, fig and other aromas like chamomile and herbs that suggest a dry wine. This is more elegant and restrained on the palate with a superb flowing texture and flavors of raisin, fig, stone fruits, and flowers. The character of this offering is really unique because wines of this style rarely combine complexity and density of flavors with elegance in my experience.
White - Sweet/Dessert
2001 Tokaj Hétszőlő Tokaji Essencia
Hungary, Tokaji
Wow I am having a hard time wrapping my head around this wine. The nose is simply stunning and endlessly complex, it is hard to describe the power and detail present here. There seems to be a central and purely novel aroma of black tea which just radiates out of the glass and is buttressed by fig, raisin paste, brown sugar, pear, apple, apricot, and a myriad of other stone fruits. This elixir reveals an instant epiphany moment as soon as it hits your tongue and explodes with weightless texture. The flavors are remarkable in their uniqueness and include fig, stone fruits, spices, glue, agave nectar, and minerals. The acidity must be the source of the effortless impression and I cannot imagine how beaming it must be to balance the essence infused sugar of this wine. This is a staggering concoction that seems too profound to be considered a mere wine, maybe liquid rapture is a more apt designation.
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