Old Burgundy dinner at home
London
Tasted March 13, 2011 by Captain Haddock with 637 views
Introduction
This dinner gathered mostly committed old Burgundy lovers, including a Burgundy producer, his importer, a wine merchant, a wine critic, a restaurant critic and various sharp-palated amateurs.
After an apéritif from the Mosel, the first four courses of our meal were served with pairs of red Burgundies. A lovely pair of sweet wines accompanied our pudding. I vaguely remember opening a half bottle of a 1971 Mosel sweet wine for the hardcore survivors around the table, and I may or may not have served some of Captain Haddock's famous sloe gin for the truly brave. The main event was a series of red Burgundies which, thankfully, mostly lived up to their potential, and showed the ageability of the best pinot noir.
Flight 1 - Apéritif (1 note)
Blinis with soured cream, smoked salmon, lemon, black pepper and chives. Toasted brioche with foie gras.
Flight 2 - A pair of 1978s served blind (2 notes)
These were the only wines we tasted blind. We served them with a pastilla with orange zest sauce, toasted flaked almonds and fresh coriander.
Red
1978 Domaine Ramonet Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Clos de la Boudriotte Rouge
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru
A nice wine to serve blind. More than one around the table nailed the vintage, and there was consensus that this was a Cotes de Beaune, but predictably enough no one guessed the village (Volnay and Beaune getting the most votes). This had a beautiful limpid quality. Crunchy red fruits. Great freshness. Delicious.
Red
1978 Bertrand de la Bussière Charmes-Chambertin
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru
As you would expect, sweeter and with more of a dark fruit profile than the Chassagne drunk alongside. At its peak, lots of sap and energy. Even a little tannin left at the end. Delicious.
Flight 3 - 1989 Trapet Grand Crus (2 notes)
Opinions were divided on which was the best wine. As the wines sat in the glass, a consensus formed around teh Chambertin which grew and blossomed in the glass, while the Latricières hardened somewhat. These wines were served with a warm salad of smoked thyme-infused duck breast, beetroot, sugar snap peas, cherry tomatoes, red onions and pine nuts.
Red
1989 Domaine Trapet Latricières-Chambertin
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Latricières-Chambertin Grand Cru
Lively garnet colour with clear bricking. More evolved than the 1989 Chambertin from the same producer served alongside. Leathery, barnyardy nose (Roy said it was too bretty for his taste but Frédéric thought is was clean as a whistle - go figure!), peppery on the palate, with beautiful dark fruit and a hint of furniture polish. Initially this had more character and energy than the Chambertin but, as it faded slightly in the glass, the Chambertin grew and outclassed it, to my mind. Still, an excellent bottle.
Red
1989 Domaine Trapet Chambertin
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambertin Grand Cru
The colour showed the merest hint of age. The nose was quite closed to start with but, as it developed in the glass, turned out glorious, with a flowery side on top of sweet incensey notes. Sweet cherry and other dark red fruit and a velvety texture. Long finish. Beautiful wine.
Flight 4 - The 1960s (2 notes)
These wines were served with roast fillet of beef with Captain Haddock sauce, wild cep risotto and roast winter vegetables.
Red
1964 Moillard Charmes-Chambertin
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru
Relatively dark with a very brown rim. Fairly robust, sweet (perhaps speciously sweet?) fruit, broad and satisfying, lively acidity. Quite rich but teetering on the brink, I'm glad we had this tonight as it is on the way down.
Flight 5 - Necrophiles' paradise (2 notes)
This memorable pair was served with delicious cheeses from Neal's Yard.
Red
1929 A. Rossigneux & Fils Musigny
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Musigny Grand Cru
Blind, I would have guessed it was a 1971, or a 1957 perhaps. Jewelly colour, very alive, flowers on the nose, very vibrant palate with the acidity a little out of kilter. Not quite together, but a delightful experience nonetheless.
Flight 6 - Pudding (2 notes)
Our pudding was a traditional bûche de Noël - a shortcrust pastry base with sponge and buttercream icing with a touch of Grand Marnier.
Flight 7 - A dimly recollected postscript (1 note)
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