Annual Beaujolais Bash-First Chance to Assess 2010

Mostly Arlequin Wine Merchant, San Francisco

Tasted November 17, 2011 by drwine2001 with 762 views

Introduction

A terrific array of wines, noted alphabetically by producer rather than in the order in which they were tasted. Please forgive the brief, impressionistic notes for most of the wines as there was little opportunity to contemplate and savor.

Flight 1 (33 notes)

Red
2011 Maison P-U-R (Cyril Alonso and Florian Looze) Beaujolais-Villages Nouveau France, Burgundy, Beaujolais, Beaujolais-Villages Nouveau
Quite a lot going on here for a nouveau wine. Very good. Far superior to the Foillard.
Red
2010 Maison P-U-R (Cyril Alonso and Florian Looze) Beaujolais-Villages Très Vieilles Vignes France, Burgundy, Beaujolais, Beaujolais-Villages
Wow, this was like a bolt from the blue! After so many lighter styled 2010s, unbelievable volume and creamy, old vine texture. Delicious and incredible for a Beaujolais Villages. Chapeau!
Red
2010 Maison P-U-R (Cyril Alonso and Florian Looze) Morgon Côte du Py France, Burgundy, Beaujolais, Morgon
Lighter color and weight than the Beaujolais Villages. Completely different profile-leaner, stony and classic. Also very good, although it does not have the immediate sex appeal of the former wine. Reminded me of the Piron or Diochon styles.
Red
2008 Guy Breton Régnié France, Burgundy, Beaujolais, Régnié
Light color, herbal nose and flavors. OK.
Red
2010 Guy Breton Régnié France, Burgundy, Beaujolais, Régnié
A clear step up from the '08 in clarity of fruit and texture, while still having some herbaceousness.
Red
2010 Guy Breton Morgon France, Burgundy, Beaujolais, Morgon
Light weight. Crunchy red fruit and licorice. Delicate and typical.
Red
2010 Domaine de la Voute des Crozes Côte de Brouilly France, Burgundy, Beaujolais, Côte de Brouilly
Lighter style than the Thivin. Peppery with herbaceousness-is this fully ripe? Not that appealing.
Red
2009 Damien Coquelet Beaujolais-Villages France, Burgundy, Beaujolais, Beaujolais-Villages
Light, relatively ripe, exuberant red fruit. Drink now with pleasure.
Red
2008 Damien Coquelet Chiroubles France, Burgundy, Beaujolais, Chiroubles
Noticeably high acid but better fruit than most of the '08s. Nothing special.
Red
2010 Coudert Fleurie Clos de la Roilette France, Burgundy, Beaujolais, Fleurie
Very attractive mix of soil and caramel. Excellent cherry fruit. This is one of the few complete 2010s tasted tonight.
Red
2009 Coudert Fleurie Clos de la Roilette Cuvée Tardive France, Burgundy, Beaujolais, Fleurie
Completely consistent with our tasting of this wine last week in Fleurie-big, powerful and exquisitely balanced. This should go on to be great.
Red
2009 Georges Descombes Beaujolais-Villages France, Burgundy, Beaujolais, Beaujolais-Villages
Earthy, tart, acidic. Little to like about this one. The "anti-2009".
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Red
2009 Georges Descombes Morgon France, Burgundy, Beaujolais, Morgon
Lean and mineral. Rather slight for a Morgon from this vintage and infinitely less interesting than the Vieilles Vignes bottling (noted on November 6th). It is troubling to see such a chasm between between these 2 bottlings, but there is no question as to how to direct one's dollars.
Red
2009 Georges Descombes Brouilly France, Burgundy, Beaujolais, Brouilly
Lighter than the Morgon with a funky edge. Would pass on this as it is not very good.
Red
2011 Jean Foillard Beaujolais Nouveau France, Burgundy, Beaujolais, Beaujolais Nouveau
Not a whole lot here.
Red
2008 Jean Foillard Fleurie France, Burgundy, Beaujolais, Fleurie
Bright floral nose. Low acidity, muddy fruit, herbal finish. Unlike the '07, not worth the price.
Red
2007 Jean Foillard Fleurie France, Burgundy, Beaujolais, Fleurie
Violets, bitter cherry, good acidity. This is lovely at present and should last.
Red
2009 Jean Foillard Morgon Côte du Py France, Burgundy, Beaujolais, Morgon
Magnum. Like the Cuvee Marcel, winey, sumptuous, sappy black cherry. Quite tannic tonight out of this format. One of the standouts in this series.
Red
2008 Jean Foillard Morgon Côte du Py France, Burgundy, Beaujolais, Morgon
Much leaner than the '09. Attractive, subtle core of gentle red fruit with some of the green element of '08s on the finish. Good to go now, unlike the younger vintage.
Red
2009 Marcel Lapierre Morgon France, Burgundy, Beaujolais, Morgon
Magnum. Light weight, tart red fruit, some sap, already far more complex than the other '09s tasted tonight.
Red
2009 Marcel Lapierre Morgon Cuvée Marcel Lapierre France, Burgundy, Beaujolais, Morgon
Riper, sappier, more weighty and tannic than the regular cuvee. This is wine! Will improve over the next decade.
Red
2009 Julien Sunier Régnié France, Burgundy, Beaujolais, Régnié
Magnum. Big, ripe, rich and plodding.
Red
2009 Julien Sunier Fleurie France, Burgundy, Beaujolais, Fleurie
Magnum. Nice, lively red fruit and spice. Much more pleasing weight than the Regnie.
Red
2009 Julien Sunier Morgon France, Burgundy, Beaujolais, Morgon
Somewhere between the Regnie and the Fleurie in heft. Good length but hardly the most complex Morgon, especially comparing it to the Lapierre, for example. Not an overly impressive range of wines, but of the three, I preferred the Fleurie.
Red
2010 Domaine des Terres Dorées (Jean-Paul Brun) Beaujolais Cuvée l'Ancien Vieilles Vignes France, Burgundy, Beaujolais
Pale. Tart, dark fruit. Good and utterly typical.
Red
2010 Domaine des Terres Dorées (Jean-Paul Brun) Fleurie France, Burgundy, Beaujolais, Fleurie
Floral, spicy, light and entirely enjoyable. Only ding is that it finishes a bit short.
Red
2009 Domaine des Terres Dorées (Jean-Paul Brun) Côte de Brouilly France, Burgundy, Beaujolais, Côte de Brouilly
More forthcoming than 6 months ago, but this still has a slightly raspy, cranberry quality wrapped in a lean, medium weight frame. Another year or two should round it out nicely.
Red
2009 Michel Tête Beaujolais-Villages Domaine du Clos du Fief France, Burgundy, Beaujolais, Beaujolais-Villages
Light and uninspiring.
Red
2009 Michel Tête Juliénas Domaine du Clos du Fief France, Burgundy, Beaujolais, Juliénas
Nice texture with layering, natural sweetness of fruit without too much concentration or fat. One of the top 5 or 6 wines tonight.
Red
2009 Charly Thevenet Régnié Grain & Granit France, Burgundy, Beaujolais, Régnié
Still with an overripe, pruny nose, but I will say that over the year, it has become more svelte and structured on the palate. OK, perhaps less overwhelming, but far from my favorite.
Red
2010 Jean-Paul Thevenet Morgon Vieilles Vignes France, Burgundy, Beaujolais, Morgon
Crisp blackberry fruit and graphite. More punch and focus than the Breton.
Red
2010 Château Thivin Côte de Brouilly France, Burgundy, Beaujolais, Côte de Brouilly
Good sweet fruit, medium body, quite tannic. Better in a year or so.
Red
2009 Trénel Fils Saint-Amour France, Burgundy, Beaujolais, Saint-Amour
Light, fruity and pretty.

Closing

Some real winners amongst the new vintage, which can be very good but can also veer to the insubstantial:
2010 PUR Beaujolais-Villages (a real stunner for its level and a new producer to me), 2010 Clos de la Roilette, and to a lesser extent, 2010 Terres Dorees Fleurie. The 2009s from Clos de la Roilette, Foillard, Lapierre and Michel Tete continue to be beauties, but the first 2 at least seem to be entering a more closed phase.

Biggest disappointments:
The Sunier wines and the regular 2009 cuvees from Georges Descombes-at least the Morgon VV seems to be worth the wait and extra $$ compared to these.

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